Hi - I'm hoping someone can give me some guidance on choosing a resin to stabilize a highly checked slab of redwood so it can be sliced into boards. My preference would be something that has low viscosity/high penetration, and cures hard enough to slice 1" panel material and/or 2" table/bench slabs off these 9-10" thick slabs.
Some years ago someone was making a "plasticized wood" by placing it in a pressure vessel and forcing resin throughout the pours. That most likely isn't going to be practical for this application.
I'd coat it with epoxy, filling as much as possible and then cutting a slab. Coat the bottom and recoat the top and then cut, repeating until the slab is used up. This isn't going to be fast or cheap as waiting until the epoxy cures will take time not to mention that epoxy is more than a hundred dollars a gallon.
On something not as checked as this piece and where I don't have to "glue" it together I use polyester resin. It's less expensive but doesn't necessarily have gluing properties.
I'm not a turner, so perhaps someone with more info on the process can step in. My understanding is that turners soak large chunks of material in fast CA glue to hold it all together for machining. Not sure on brands, time in the soak, or time drying. Epoxy won't do it for you unless it's really thin, maybe cpes, but I doubt it.
OP says he is cutting into slabs and not turning. CA doesn't fill a gap with any strength, epoxy will. Large pockets of CA don't set very well, (as in the checks of this slab) epoxy is a chemical reaction and a known set time based on temperature. Thin epoxy is no problem.
Thanks for the responses. Bruce, your response was sort of the crux of my question - would polyester resin be strong enough to let me slice it. Sounds like not, in your experience. Any product recommendations on a thin epoxy?
I live on the beach in a fishing community so would get it al the local marine supply. West System is good and there are other brands. I'd do a Google search, you'd get a better price. Jamestown Distributors would also be a source. It can be made thicker using micro balloons and I have colored it using paint pigment. Not sure of that weakens the bond or not.
Polyester would be available in any auto parts store, you might try it. It's local and cheap and you could pour on some today as opposed to waiting for freight.
Stabilizing resin will fill the cells of the wood, but not "glue" the cracks together. Look for Cactus Juice as a stabilizing resin, but I think you will have to use a thin polyester resin to cast it after slicing. All the methods are going to take a hard vacuum to pull the fluids through the cracks. Might just have a slab of firewood there. Give Curtis a call at TurnTex.
1/21 #8: stabilizing checked wood with resin ...
Thanks for the tip, Rich. That Cactus Juice sounds like a cool product, but as you say, these slabs are way too big for any practical vacuum or oven setup. I'm going to try a 2-part epoxy. If that doesn't work, resawing just might not be in the cards.
I have used Abatron's Liquid Wood two-part. No VOC's but is not a quick set. I have built damn edge out of modeling putty and let it seep through. Available through Klingspor Wood Working Shop. Used on knotty slabs working from bottom side and CA glued MDF backup boards but it penetrates the MDF and grind it away after curing. Goes everywhere there is a void so replenish until set takes 3-4hrs depending on temp.
the particular timber has to be cuboid dry out for you to stabilize seeing that you should cook the item to create the particular resin. That is going to please take a large oven for you to cook the particular resin dry out.
Just curious what the provenance on the wood in question would be ? Depending on your usage and or expected outcomes an alternate material such as unchecked wood
could save a lot of time and money . Looks like a fair chunk of fire wood if nothing else .
Yeah, some of the pieces certainly have firewood potential, but the they're from a large "round" my client's late husband cut many years ago that she wants to try to make some memento furniture pieces. So its worth the effort so try to get some usable lumber out of them. Some of them might also end up as sculptures in their more or less intact form.
Coat the bottom and recoat the top and then cut, repeating until the slab is used up. This isn't going to be fast or cheap as waiting until the epoxy cures will take time not to mention that epoxy is more than a hundred dollars a gallon.
FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards(return to top)
WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
A valid email return address must be included with each message.
Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
"Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.
You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.
WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.
Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).
Libel: Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.
Improper Decorum: Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).
Advertising: The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).
Repeated Forum Abuse:
Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.
There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).
The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)
Forum Posting Form Guidelines
The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines
Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
Thread Related File Uploads
Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .FLV .MP4 (Image Upload Tips) If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices.
What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe
for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use
of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation,
and at their own risk.