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console table structure/ makeup11/3
need some advice on the best way to approach building the attached console table. Anigre veneer, ~5' long x 2' deep
I'm debating using solid anigre for the apron and some cross members underneath. The top will be classic core with veneer.
I'd be mostly worried about the brass and wood notches matching up. Fabricated metal is not as precise as machined wood. You're expecting the brass to counterbalance the tops? Have you tested the forces required to tip the tables? Looks like too much overhang to me.
I would think it better to make the top a full torsion box with anigre all around. Build the box core with the drawer opening in mind.
If these are Art Tables and all the people concerned understand there will be no rock collection out at the ends, then it may be OK to build. Any weight not directly above the leg(s?) will tip the table easily.
If the legs are not cast solid bronze, I would put about 150 lbs of steel in the very bottom of the legs. I have done this with 1/4" steel sheets, drilled to lag bolt into a recess in the wood structure.
Once that is accomplished, then you have to attach the legs to the tops. I'll leave that one up to you. The drawing shows a wedge penetrating the top, giving the illusion that this supports the table, but I would only think of it as illusory, not as a real point of attachment.
thanks for the thoughtful responses. I do plan on pinning the legs to the table top as well as adding some weight to the bottom of the legs, The legs are made up of 1/8" brass plate.
You will get it,
After a reread the C260 could be out to solid silicone bronze plate if budget allows (expensive and harder to get). The silicone bronze plate TIG welds like butter, and almost zero boil out of zinc. Then if you have to use 260 or other close alloy you might flame-braze so you don't have have darker patination problems associated w zinc and lower copper content brasses.
Make sure you have a qualified welder who is fully aware of heat control during the welding. 1/8" plate of that size will very likely warp or oil can.
I have an excellent metal fabricator who has extensive experience with brass.
One of my biggest concerns is the mitred edge on the tabletop that is exposed when the small pencil drawer is opened.
One option would be to simply glue in a small piece of veneer. I'm not too excited about this option.
I was considering edgebanding the table with 1" solid anigre prior to veneering of course. Then cutting my mitres. If I went with this method, I think that I will also use solid stock to make up the aprons and veneer them with the same veneer flitch as the top.
I'm reluctant to waterfall the veneer on the short sides of the table because I would be running it perpendicular to the grain of the apron.
Would I need to add a balance sheet to the back sides of the aprons, or are they stable/short enough to stay flat?
Thanks for everyone's feedback
With a large 1" edge under the veneer of the top you risk print through of the joint between solid and substrate. Seasonal humidity change and the different reactions of the two might show a slight line. Anigre is busy enough that it might not be an issue but the quality of your work shown on your website suggests you would be bothered by it. A solution is to counter veneer the anigre before pressing to the substrate.