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I am in need of an 8 ft. piece of rectangle box tubing to use as a straightedge for cabinet installations, anybody got a source? An 8' level may work also. What are you other cabinet installers using to maintain level over this distance. thanks
I use a 78" door jamb level for that particular purpose. I do also have aluminum rectangular tube that's 1" x 4" x 8' for when I need to check something for a straight edge. I wouldn't trust it for super high precision, but it's accurate enough for most shop things. I bought it online from online metals.com and it was pretty reasonable at the time.
I prefer the Stabila plate levels. Awesome tool.
"What are you other cabinet installers using to maintain level over this distance. thanks "
Thanks All, I bought a 8' stanley level at Lowe's for $90 plus tax used it today and made a big difference. I install factory low end cabinets, always lots of little boxes to put together and this has helped maintain level over 3-4 boxes. Its fast and cheap and works.
I buy 2-1/2" x 3/8" thick extruded aluminum flat bar. It comes in 20' lengths and the local steel company will cut it. I carry a 4', 6' and 10' for large runs. Here a 20' piece is $60, much cheaper then any straight edge and just as accurate. Also it's easy to drill holes through and cheap enough to be sacrificial if needed.
Steel studs; cheap ($4-7) and straight.
Really steel studs ? We use 8' stabila level , laser or the long festool rail, in a jam , use engineered 2x4 s any good lumber yard will have them , as for material from a metal yard the longer the piece is it starts to go to one side or the other , might need to be machined.
I use MDF with high pressure laminate glued to both sides (leftover pieces from our products) I start with a pice about 8" wide and re-machine the edges as needed with the CNC.
8' is not that long. Why not simply straighten a stick of wood on the jointer? It will be straighter than most of the extrusions people mentioned.
In a pinch, theres always the old string and 3 blocks, and probably the most accurate if your just looking for a flat plane...built a many metal frame bulkheads in the day with just that.And dont forget the old plastic tube and water..Still find that to be very accurate if I am doubting my laser!! and goes around corners without moving the set-up,we still carry one in the install truck..
+1 on a piece of jointed stock. I edged a piece of 1" plywood with 1/2" of mahogany and jointed 1 edge straight, planed the other parallel, hand holes to match my Dave Crick 4' level. Only out the time to make it and it's been good for several years now. Have one for jambs too.
I always used to screw as many boxes together as I and a helper could lift first, then put them up with jacks, easier to level up. But everyone has their own methods.