|Home » Forums » Cabinet and Millwork Installation » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
Slab lunch counter/bartop around a corner5/25
I've been asked to help with installation of a slab lunch counter that runs around a corner (L shape). They want to miter the two slabs at the corner. No, no, no.
Assuming I can talk them out of this (if not, I'll walk away), I'm working up an alternative. This is in a bakery/sandwich shop so I anticipate changes in RH to be high.
The slabs are flat sawn 2" thick western red cedar, 16" wide, and installed with brackets against a wall. I estimate future movement of slabs to be 1/8" to 1/4".
My suggestion at this point is to cut the slab ends at 90 degrees and join them to another piece installed independently at the corner. Right now, I'm thinking I could construct the corner piece out of bent cedar laminations that run around the corner so I have end grain on both joinery sides. The outside edge of this corner piece will be cut in a curve which solves another issue of the L shaped counter (no sharp corner).
For joinery, I propose using the Domino XL and breadboard end style connection. All the 14mm tenons will be glued into slab ends with Structan. In the corner piece, only the center tenon will be glued. The other tenons will go into oversize (width) mortises in the corner piece and pegged with walnut through elongated slots in the tenon. Dry fitting this massive thing to mark the peg slots should be fun.
A gap will be left between the wall and the slab to allow for movement and trim installed above to hide gap.
I haven't seen the slabs yet. They are on site at the bakery under construction. Visit site tomorrow. I think one slab is 6' long and the other 12'.
This is the best I can come up with.
So, does this sound about right? Anyone tried breadboard style with Domino tenons? Other ideas/strategies?
Cedar is about the nicest wood I can think of for this. Shrinkage is minimal, at least on Aromatic Red.
Simple butt joint? Change of level? Beveled miter edges, leading down to a spline not far from the top? Overlapping tops, set into a pocket? When all else fails, I do what you said and use a third piece for the corner. If you run the grain in the same direction (miter twice at 22.5°) you are .924 of the way home.