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Coping --  1 -- 
10/4
Website: http://www.ccandrllc.com
Hello All, first time here. I have a job going on now that has 7" tall base that is 1-1/2" thick in places. I have been looking for some alternatives to my coping saw. I love it and can use it, it just takes a long time to cope tis base board and I have a lot of copes to make. I was looking at the copemaster but they are not in production right now. I am considering trying to build one. Any help in a tool that would cut down on man hours and do a clean job would be much appreciated.
Thanks
10/4 #2: Coping ...
You could always look into a coping foot for a saber saw.
10/4 #3: Coping ...
We just did a job that had a huge crown that would not fit into our copemaster , so we picked up a Collins coping foot for the jig saw , I have seen these things around for years though never got one. We were very impressed with how well it worked .
Although the copemaster is a great machine we don't use it as much as we used to , it's worth the investment especially if you can find a used one . Here in Ct. we see them everywhere due to the owner / builder of the machine had his shop a few towns over.
10/4 #4: Coping ...
Website: http://WWW.ccandrllc.com
How thick of material fits in the cope master? How tall of trim fits in the cope master as well?
Do you know how I can get one or anyone that is selling on?
I understand that "Bill?" was developing a new version but I can not find it anywhere.
We had to mill the baseboard out of 8/4 rough cut.
I ordered the Collins foot for the festool jig saw, but I am still very interested in the cope master, more because it seams I can train a laborer to cope with it and keep the rest of us banging trim on the walls.
Any help is appreciated.
10/5 #5: Coping ...
Check out this link:
cope master on craigslist
10/5 #6: Coping ...
I had a copemaster for years, There great on standard size trim.. I'm not sure the clamping jaws will hold a 1.5" thick piece of material though. The other drawback is you need to you use good quality mill work in it, Its essentially a big key cutting machine. If your pattern doesn't match what your coping due to a variety of reasons ( cupped,mis matched profiles, thickness changes) you don't get a good cope. I just use a regular older style Bosch jigsaw with normal base and a coarse blade, coping saw for the super tight spots... Once you get a feel for using a jigsaw to cope it goes pretty quick
10/5 #7: Coping ...
Also check out this link, from the moderator of the forum.
Helpful info
10/5 #8: Coping ...
Herb's response was my reason for suggesting the coping foot.
Nothing against your milling process but small shop millwork (myself included) often has small inconsistencies which dont bode well for a coping machine that runs off a profile template.
May be wrong, but it would seem with millwork that size, a coping foot and some sort of fudge factor would be almost essential.
10/5 #9: Coping ...
Website: http://WWW.ccandrllc.com
Sold, thanks guys. I ordered a Collins coping foot yesterday and a festool jigsaw today to dedicate to the foot. The foot does seem better for "fudge" where needed. I totally agree that the key cutting method could be difficult with our W&H style moulders.
Thanks, I will let you know how it goes.
10/5 #10: Coping ...
You had me til' the dedicated Festool Saw haha.
Reading back through this I feel your pain. Its tough to get a guy who can cut copes while you nail them up.
For me its always been the opposite. Putting the coped material up is almost simple with gauge blocks and marks, so I always wind up being the guy who can fly out the copes in a single shot and handing them to the guy who just lines them up with the marks and smacks them in with the nailer.
I of course let/make him/them cope a bunch of corners before an after lunch for several days until it soaks in and they can give me some relief.
Some guys pick it up relatively quickly but I find most are like me and an overnight soak brings the back thinking they've got it licked, only to realize they need another soak.
In the end I wind up doing most of them and can almost stay ahead of them looking ahead and seeing whats needed and by they time the call the length, Ive got the cope finished.
Its a bear.
10/6 #11: Coping ...
This has some good wrinkles on how to do this.
A good review
10/6 #12: Coping ...
you can make the straight cut on a miter saw then put back to back 36 grit sanding disc in a mini grinder to do the copes.
it is a bit dusty but works great.
nicko
10/7 #13: Coping ...
I dont do any field work anymore but i used to use a Collins coping foot and like Nicko just posted....back to back 36 grit discs on a 4 1/2" angle grinder.
10/21 #14: Coping ...
Cut the 45, cope with a GOOD coping saw. Should take a couple of minutes. Problem is finding a good saw. I still use my grandfathers, 100 years old but far stiffer than made now.
10/25 #15: Coping ...
Gary Katz way...below
How to Collins coping foot
10/25 #16: Coping ...
Then there's the table saw method... Based on the same principle as the copemaster
Table saw cope
10/25 #17: Coping ...
The Angle grinder method.
Grinder cope
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