|Home » Forums » Sawing and Drying Forum » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
How straight should 10/4 oak be after drying1/3
I just got in some 10/4 x random width x 14' kiln dried plain sawn red oak. Every board has a 2" bow over the 14' length. That is if you laid a 8" wide board face down on the floor both ends would be lifted up 2" from the floor. This is far too much bow to be able to remove on the jointer and still retain a board that will make a 2" thick x 10' long hand rail.
Upon calling my supplier I was told it was extremely difficult to keep thick stock such as 10/4, 12/4 etc. flat through the drying process and that he couldn't guarantee that we could receive flat and straight material in these thicknesses. We've never had a problem though with 8/4 red oak coming in straight and flat.
I'm going to have to resolve the problem by laminating 2 layers of 5/4 material on this project and am returning the 10/4.
So who is at fault here? Is it the supplier for not being able to sell me flat and straight 10/4 red oak or is it me for not being aware that thick stock is notorious for bowing and/or bending during the drying process.
It is not a problem to dry thick oak and keep it flat.
Note that the NHLA grading rules require the upper grades to be flat, within reason.
+/- 1/4" is reasonable: you should be able to get 2" out of 10/4 material. Check with another supplier.
This is an interesting question.
I wonder, how much did you pay for this stock?
> 10/4 x random width x 14' kiln dried plain sawn red oak.
That thickness and width works out to about 2.91 bf/ inch of width. If you had a 6" wide piece, you had about 17.5 bf of lumber there.
Depending on your area of the country, and what grade this material was, whether it was kiln dried, and how far the seller had to transport, etc. etc..... you'd pay between $1 and $8 per board foot.
If you paid $1, I'd say you got a steal.
In between those values.... well... let's say there's a LOT of variables that determine a fair price, any number of which could make that quite-crooked lumber worth what you paid for it.
I wonder, if when you specify hardwood material for purchase, are you using the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA) grades and specifications? These are rules that are agreed upon by suppliers and consumers of these types of materials as a way to satisfy the needs of both for consistent and specific lumber properties.
You can learn more about the role of the NHLA in the lumber industry here:
If you follow their guidelines and ensure your suppliers adhere to them as well, I would expect your lumber buying experiences to improve.