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wood kiln electric heater

10/29/17       
Mark Member

Hi
I've built a wood kiln and read other threads on this topic. Specifically I need an electric heater that will not shutoff until 140 degrees F . Everyone rated residential has a thermal switch for overheat protection. I know some exist for industrial use but can't find any rated for this temp at a reasonable price. Found many at 900 degrees for a fortune lol. Anyone know a specific manufacture and product. I found one that was in the UK up to 160 degrees F but was 3 phase and only sold in the UK. thanks in advance. P.S. I am aware of the wood dust issue and have taken precautions.

10/30/17       #2: wood kiln electric heater ...
J R in MO Member

Not knowing size of kiln, Check out the units in the counter top baking ovens.

10/30/17       #3: wood kiln electric heater ...
MarkB Member

Just use any heater that will deliver the btu/wattage input you need and locate the heater outside the kiln with a remote reading bulb thermostat. The heater will never see the heat temps that are inside the kiln and will just keep pumping in heat til the thermostat is satisfied.

10/30/17       #4: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark B Member

Additionally if you really wanted to get fancy you could duct some return air from the kiln to the inlet side of the heater to boost your speed and save on electric. You could protect the heater buy installing a temperature actuated automatic vent opener similar to those used in a greenhouse. You could likely modify the vent opener to open a flap in the return air duct near the heater when the temperature inside the return air duct exceeded perhaps 80 or 90 degrees. This would allow you to pull heated air from the kiln back into the heater requiring the heater to raise the temperature by only 50-60 degrees (90 to 140).

As the temperature in the kiln rises, and the return air in the duct becomes hotter and hotter, the temperature actuated flapper would open more allowing ambient or outdoor air in keeping the return air within the limits allowable to the heater.

10/30/17       #5: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark Member

Thanks Mark B.... thinking outside the box lol.
yeah, i think a fired forced air heater will do the trick and throw a duct over the heat outlet of the device. Just looking for the product that has the remote bulb that goes that high. worst case scenario I can wire a relay to the on off switch


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10/30/17       #6: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark B Member

That cheapy goes to 210F. The heater you post will surely do the trick as long as your comfortable with distance and spark arresting.

Product Link

10/31/17       #7: wood kiln electric heater ...
Gene Wengert-WoodDoc

When the hot air from a heater goes into the kiln without the use of a plenum that is isolated from the hot heater (this is how a hot air furnace in a Home works), you have a very high risk of a fire, as wood dust can easily ignite at temperatures in the low 200F. So, at the least, make sure the kiln is not in a home or office and also install a smoke alarm. Better is to use a heating plenum to isolate the heater.

10/31/17       #8: wood kiln electric heater ...
rich c.

Best idea I've read about was using an element from a home oven, mounted to a thick piece of aluminum used as a heat sink. Worst I've seen is that torpedo heater mentioned.

10/31/17       #9: wood kiln electric heater ...
Tennessee Tim  Member

Website: http://www.tsmfarms.com

Mark, the main thing is to be careful with the safety side of this...MOST DH units have electric as a option. So that would entail safety switches AND components for HVAC systems....NOTE I'll keep ENDORSING SAFETY!!!! The force gas heat as the salamender is a NO-NO!!!! Dangerous as a cocked gun with a hair trigger AND it just got dropped!!!

I built my kiln and went with the hydroponics theory. I use a water heater with water pump and heater core. gives me 140+ deg off coils. I wanted to go electric HVAC unit BUT I couldn't find a HVAC person that could relate to the use of or how the operation could be set up correctly.

A Gas HVAC can be used IF air is kept filter heavily as there is NO flame contact to actual air in the kiln....all flows through a chamber NOT touching the flames....DON'T use anything with open flames!!!! Again Russian roulette!!!
Bottom line is ....BE SAFE!!! FIRE is a great risk!!!!

There's several companies that have small kilns for sterilizing.....maybe you need a "firewood" sterilizer....you are just trying to finish off the bugs with heat aren't you???? hint hint.

I beat the odds once BUT I almost cost myself a lot as one source of electric heat I tried the safety switch DIDN'T work...MAJOR melt down of parts.... I couldn't find my pics of damage BUT I got to it just prior to igniting. Bottomline is ...safety switches and company testings are for a reason!!!

I hope this helps. Enjoy drying SAFELY!!!

10/31/17       #10: wood kiln electric heater ...
Tennessee Tim  Member

Website: http://www.tsmfarms.com

UPDATE....
I found the pics....Did I mention MELT DOWN!!!!

Top pic mini kiln....
2nd pic weather station sending unit (actually still working on same batteries (NO choice, I can't replace them due to meltdown)
3rd pic hole melted through pink board

11/2/17       #11: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark Member

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I guess the jist of this is that there is no quick product and the electronics need to be isolated. I like the water heater idea as I don't need to blow hot air inside and worry about pressurizing issues. ie sealed kiln. I'm just going to design it from the ground up. Its coming down to electric vs water pump idea. I am most comfortable with the electric, its just sourcing the parts.

11/2/17       #12: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark Member

I had an idea....
electric floor radiant heating system.
This way no flame combustion issues. Electronics can be out side the kiln and i am sure the element can handle the high temp. just have to get the watts high enough at a fair cost

11/6/17       #13: wood kiln electric heater ...
Mark B Member

You may have a tough time getting the BTU conversion you need with radiant unless you use something like steel tubing designed for high pressure steam.

I know this will ruffle some feathers here but depending on the location and setup of your kiln I would not hesitate to use an open flame option with a plenum as Gene mentioned. If you have ready access to natural gas or propane (maybe not with propane) but it will be your cheapest heat source.

Your torpedo heater option is overkill. You may be over estimating the amount of heat input you need with an insulated kiln enclosure. That said, several other smaller options are out there.

You will have to decide if you want the work, and the liability, of a self built system, if so the options are endless, if not, as Tim says, by a DH unit with electric heat option and walk away.


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