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1/4" mdf panel glued to back of door frame9/14
I have someone that wants cabinet doors with an applied molding that is 5/8" bead or cove molding, 1/8" below face of door. I would like to make 3/4" thick doors with typical size stile and rails with no groove and glue molding to this edge and then glue 1/4" mdf to back of door. Panel won't be same size as door but smaller in width and length so I can accommodate euro hinges.
Why not consider @ 5/4 finished stock and make a door with the panel about 1/4" from the backside of the door. Typically the old school " back panel " doors all warped since the panel was 1/4" and behind a wood frame it was way unbalanced or un restrained, a frame and panel with the panel captured is very stable and predictable.
I'm considering that and will probably wind up going that route. Was trying to avoid buying the thicker maple as that is what I typically use.
Depends on what hinge you use, how wide the rails and stiles are, and if the customer doesn't mind looking at the edge of MDF when they open it. I think it would look like somebodies uncle did the work in his garage. Not a professional looking option.
I have done a similar set up once when I needed to match some of the wainscoting in the house. I just took a piece of 1/4 mdf the rough size of the door I needed, and added 1/2 mdf to the face to get a 3/4 door with a 1/2 recessed panel. Added the panel molding to the inside and had a door the matched the wainscot. I like to use mdf for the face as well because it moves like the back piece of 1/4. Its not the much different than a normal mdf door, so no issue with seeing the edge.
It works perfectly fine. I bet we have built 25,000 or more doors like this. With 2.25" frames the back can only cover .25" on the sides to make room for euro hinges, top and bottom don't matter.