I am a finish carpenter by trade who installs kitchens. We make some of our own cabinets but most of the cabinets we use are manufactured elsewhere and sent to us to install. Ive been doing more and more of my own spray finishing since often we are missing fillers, fascia pieces , end panels , etc and being able to make them and finish them is sometimes preferable to waiting 3-4 weeks for a replacement to come in.
Most of my experience with spray finishing has been self taught and through trial and error so please forgive my relative lack of knowledge.
I've been using Lenmar's pre cat pigmented lacquer for most of my spraying recently . I am able to get a pretty good finish with my Hvlp but where I struggle is "finishing the finish." Everytime I try to sand out dust nibs or light orange peel , I end up just making it worse.
I am curious, what does a post-spray finishing process look like in a larger cabinet shop ? I've been doing 400 grit , 800 grit then polishing compound but haven't been thrilled with the results
Only time I'm going to go through a rub out process is if it's for a high gloss.
If you are normally getting grunge in your finishes that you have to fix, you need to determine where it's coming from and eliminate it. You should be able to get a mostly nib free finish on most of your parts. Of course the occasional dust speck, bubble or hair will happen.
Unless you have a spray booth or a fan exhausting the spray area you need to move the sprayed parts into a space where nothing can settle out of the air onto your part. Spraying and drying in the same room without exhaust is going to give you an issue. Don't know if this is your issue but something to consider.
Can't respond to a post finishing schedule since I don't know what sheen you are attempting. You're probably using the wrong tip or viscosity if you are getting orange peel. I'm no fan of precat in the kitchen. I've seen issues around the dishwasher, sink, and range hoods.
I did check out the Lenmar products. Try using a white basecoat under a post catalyzed pigmented conversion varnish. Scuff with 320 between coats. Blow and tack off, before spraying. A dust free environment, with an exhaust fan..just some fan in a window, in a clean room. Be sure to reduce the conversion varnish according to the product info sheet. Not too much air at the gun. Gravity feed works great and is easy to clean. You should get a clean, hard, water resistant finish. Be sure to wear a respirator. We can make you a finish guy yet!
I've been using pre-cat because that's what I can get at a local Benjamin Moore and because they can tint it to match colors for me. Usually I'm going for a Satin sheen because that's what the cabinets we use are finished in. For conversion varnish, do you guys tint it yourselves? And where do you get it?
When I'm spraying it I do put a fan an in the window and spray in front of that. I was using a 2.0 tip for the precat but just bought a 1.5. What tip size would you all recommend?
There are some paint stores that carry post catalyzed products. Lenmar, as you are already using their precat, or MLCampbell products might be where to start. I know I can get ML Campbell at the paint store or through the Atlantic Plywood Corp. Both outlets will tint the finish to match any color.
Had similar problems years ago and when I looked closely at my set up I found it was just not clean enough. One problem was me; I had way too much dust and such on my clothes. I started wearing the very sporty throw away coveralls and made certain they were clean before I went into the finishing area.
So many people overlook other sources of contaminates. A very smart painter showed me this trick to find out what is what. Take a five gallon bucket and stretch plastic wrap over the top and let it set in both your booth and the finishing area in general. It was amazing what ended up on top of the plastic film. The same crap that was setting down in our wet finishes. Long story short we had to move our finish area further away from production.
FORUM GUIDELINES: Please review the guidelines below before posting at WOODWEB's Interactive Message Boards(return to top)
WOODWEB is a professional industrial woodworking site. Hobbyist and homeowner woodworking questions are inappropriate.
Messages should be kept reasonably short and on topic, relating to the focus of the forum. Responses should relate to the original question.
A valid email return address must be included with each message.
Advertising is inappropriate. The only exceptions are the Classified Ads Exchange, Machinery Exchange, Lumber Exchange, and Job Opportunities and Services Exchange. When posting listings in these areas, review the posting instructions carefully.
Subject lines may be edited for length and clarity.
"Cross posting" is not permitted. Choose the best forum for your question, and post your question at one forum only.
Messages requesting private responses will be removed - Forums are designed to provide information and assistance for all of our visitors. Private response requests are appropriate at WOODWEB's Exchanges and Job Opportunities and Services.
Messages that accuse businesses or individuals of alleged negative actions or behavior are inappropriate since WOODWEB is unable to verify or substantiate the claims.
Posts with the intent of soliciting answers to surveys are not appropriate. Contact WOODWEB for more information on initiating a survey.
Excessive forum participation by an individual upsets the balance of a healthy forum atmosphere. Individuals who excessively post responses containing marginal content will be considered repeat forum abusers.
Responses that initiate or support inappropriate and off-topic discussion of general politics detract from the professional woodworking focus of WOODWEB, and will be removed.
Participants are encouraged to use their real name when posting. Intentionally using another persons name is prohibited, and posts of this nature will be removed at WOODWEB's discretion.
Carefully review your message before clicking on the "Send Message" button - you will not be able to revise the message once it has been sent.
You will be notified of responses to the message(s) you posted via email. Be sure to enter your email address correctly.
WOODWEB's forums are a highly regarded resource for professional woodworkers. Messages and responses that are crafted in a professional and civil manner strengthen this resource. Messages that do not reflect a professional tone reduce the value of our forums.
Messages are inappropriate when their content: is deemed libelous in nature or is based on rumor, fails to meet basic standards of decorum, contains blatant advertising or inappropriate emphasis on self promotion (return to top).
Libel: Posts which defame an individual or organization, or employ a tone which can be viewed as malicious in nature. Words, pictures, or cartoons which expose a person or organization to public hatred, shame, disgrace, or ridicule, or induce an ill opinion of a person or organization, are libelous.
Improper Decorum: Posts which are profane, inciting, disrespectful or uncivil in tone, or maliciously worded. This also includes the venting of unsubstantiated opinions. Such messages do little to illuminate a given topic, and often have the opposite effect. Constructive criticism is acceptable (return to top).
Advertising: The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not an advertising venue. Companies participating in a Forum discussion should provide specific answers to posted questions. WOODWEB suggests that businesses include an appropriately crafted signature in order to identify their company. A well meaning post that seems to be on-topic but contains a product reference may do your business more harm than good in the Forum environment. Forum users may perceive your references to specific products as unsolicited advertising (spam) and consciously avoid your web site or services. A well-crafted signature is an appropriate way to advertise your services that will not offend potential customers. Signatures should be limited to 4-6 lines, and may contain information that identifies the type of business you're in, your URL and email address (return to top).
Repeated Forum Abuse:
Forum participants who repeatedly fail to follow WOODWEB's Forum Guidelines may encounter difficulty when attempting to post messages.
There are often situations when the original message asks for opinions: "What is the best widget for my type of shop?". To a certain extent, the person posting the message is responsible for including specific questions within the message. An open ended question (like the one above) invites responses that may read as sales pitches. WOODWEB suggests that companies responding to such a question provide detailed and substantive replies rather than responses that read as a one-sided product promotion. It has been WOODWEB's experience that substantive responses are held in higher regard by our readers (return to top).
The staff of WOODWEB assume no responsibility for the accuracy, content, or outcome of any posting transmitted at WOODWEB's Message Boards. Participants should undertake the use of machinery, materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB's Message Boards after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages it deems inappropriate. (return to top)
Forum Posting Form Guidelines
The name you enter in this field will be the name that appears with your post or response (return to form).
Personal or business website links must point to the author's website. Inappropriate links will be removed without notice, and at WOODWEB's sole discretion. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
Your e-mail address will not be publicly viewable. Forum participants will be able to contact you using a contact link (included with your post) that is substituted for your actual address. You must include a valid email address in this field. (return to form)
Subject may be edited for length and clarity. Subject lines should provide an indication of the content of your post. (return to form)
Thread Related Link and Image Guidelines
Thread Related Links posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should point to locations that provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related Link that directs visitors to an area with inappropriate content will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
Thread Related File Uploads
Thread Related Files posted at WOODWEB's Forums and Exchanges should provide supporting information for the topic being discussed in the current message thread. Video Files: acceptable video formats are: .MOV .AVI .WMV .MPEG .MPG .MP4 (Image Upload Tips) If you encounter any difficulty when uploading video files, E-mail WOODWEB for assistance. The purpose of WOODWEB Forums is to provide answers, not to serve as an advertising venue. A Thread Related File that contains inappropriate content will be removed, and uploaded files that are not directly related to the message thread will be removed. WOODWEB reserves the right to delete any messages with links, files, or images it deems inappropriate. (return to form)
The editors, writers, and staff at Woodweb.com try to promote safe practices.
What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe
for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use
of materials and methods discussed at Woodweb.com after considerate evaluation,
and at their own risk.