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Kitchen and bathroom cabinet/ vanity finishs7/18
I am a electrician by trade and I make cabinets as a separate business. I picked up a whole house recently.
Tongue and groove blue pine or cedar on all of the walls and ceilings.
I would have tried to pre-finish the wood for the walls and ceilings but there wasn't the space to lay it out.
I have already made the cabinet boxes.
The face frames and doors are red oak and they want them dark.( almost black )
I made a few sample boards with transtint dark walnut mixed with water as the base color and used Java gel stain over it because of the grain not taking color well.
On other test board I tried Charles Neil prestain conditioner and just used the water based transtint dye.
Both turned out good.The non conditioned oak with dye and then gel stain turned with the least amount of messing around.
What should I use as a clear? I'm thinking pre cat lacquer for everything. I want a repairable surface.
The local Sherwin Williams only has nitro laquer ( I keep some around )
I am going to spray it on with a Fuji turbine unit on site.
I also need a recommendation on what to spray on western red cedar ( interior ). Some of it is in sun catching windows. I don't think they want it turning grey.
The local ACE told the home owner to use Thompsons water seal. All of the wood is interior.
I'm thinking on renting a airless for spraying the walls.
Thanks for your help.
Precat will not last around the sink, dishwasher, and range hood. It cracks at the joints, then water and steam leak in. The finish then fails at those cracks. I did mine 20 years ago when I first tried precat. It was a mess in around 5 years. Nitro is worse, shellac is horrible if any moisture around. Use conversion varnish on the cabinets, or a professional water based product from General Finishes. I've never used shellac under precat. If you insist on using precat, be really careful with film thickness. It also likes to cold check if sprayed too heavy or with too many coats. You are really going to spray nitro or precat onsite? That's not healthy for anyone! Expect a visit from the neighbors, or the city inspector, when you put the fan in the window! That house is going to stink for days! Oh yeah, the tongue and groove is going to shrink this winter so they will see a line of unfinished wood on all the tongues. I always pre finish tongue and groove, and raised panels for that reason.
In bathrooms you want to use a conversion varnish. It's a post catalyzed product. Do you have a booth to evacuate the fumes?
Other then that, use a waterborne polyurethane. It's much safer to use and it is still a tough finish. Dry times will be slower.
Leo is right, BUT, it's the time of year for tough application temps and humidity for water based in certain areas around the United States. Dew points in the 70s around here lately, with temps in the low 90s. It's like Florida is sending it's air to Central IL.
Look at "TARGET" coatings for waterborne lacquers. Lots to choose from.....they have their own website discussion forum too.
Go with their polyurethane clear for the kitchen.
Next coating would be waterborne by Valspar of MLC.
I would never spray CV onsite without total house ventilation....protect your eyes and lungs!
Thanks for the advice.
I should mention that the house is a new build ( no peoples inside ) and there are no neighbors within 200 yards. The heat and A/C is on.
I usually brush on poly or spray paint or lacquer at my shop for things I build. But I usually build smaller things like a pantry or a stand alone cabinet or two. Or just add pull out shelves.
I have seen unfinished cabinets installed on jobs where they spray them with lacquer ( The fumes ran all of the other crews out of the building ) after they are hung. I was thinking on going that way.
I just need a clear coat though, I will stain my faceframe pieces before I install them.
That and I want to put the boxes up and build large one piece face frames so there aren't all of those mating lines you see in individual box assemblies.
I will look into CV. I will probably have to order a qt online to try out.
I don't like poly on cabinet doors so much.
The doors I will build and spray at my shop.
First, Target's waterborne poly is not like convention 'household' poly. They also manufacture a CV waterborne lacquer.
Next, solvent borne CV is available in gallons.
Spraying on site with CV is a non-stopper for me. I spray with a Kremlin 10-14 AAA pump for all on site work. Extremely low overspray. But would never consider solvent CV as a coating that is safe to spray indoors without alot of ventilation.
You have to turn off heat and AC, close all vents and duct work and return supply vents, etc.
Take the time and effort to use a Waterborne Lacquer. If you have an ICA coatings dealer near you, have him give you a sample of their waterborne.
How about this?
I don't have to spray lacquer and I want to do a good and long lasting job. I'm willing to change a few things to make that happen.
Oops I posted the wrong link.
How nasty is the CV? I'm going to buy some of each just to try.
Do you use the crosslink additive?
I also need something suitable to seal the walls and ceilings. Some walls are blue pine and some walls are western red cedar.
I also found this.
I asked a the local Sherwin Williams saturday and they didn't mention this.
Try ML Campbell waterborne lacquer, Its a good finish that won't kill you on the jobsite..
Yes I have also seen many paint crews spray lacquer in homes with no ventilation, wouldn't recommend it but it happens every day
I ended up using GF Enduro-var on everything.
I looked into the CV finishes, but I just don't have what it takes to safely spray them.
Thanks for the discussion. Actually, I think you have good knowledge about to make the kitchen cabinets. Am I right? But, If you ever want to buy the best kitchen cabinets, doors, and other accessories then no problem. I can help you.