My Second Kitchen

To solve the crown problem I always use a two piece crown. I start with an inverted 3/4" furniture base (w/a profiled edge) turned upside down. That goes parallel to the tops of the cabinets. Then the crown goes against that piece, I usually leave about 1.5" of frieze showing to allow the crown to follow the ceiling line and not ruin the relationship your eye has to the non level line between the two parts.

Totally agree with Ben. I either leave a gap or take the cornice down 50mm so you can keep it straight relative to the cabinet doors. Not a fan of the pull-outs that high up though. And surely a cupboard would be a better use of the space. The finish looks great though nice job. Just one thing on the dresser the draw looks out of proportion - was there a reason why it was that deep?

I may try that with the crown next time. I assume you make the cabinets 1.5" + the base profile shorter to do that. The cabinet to the side of the microwave is 2" less (12") than the microwave cab (14") to allow the crown to dead end into the side of the cabinet. The microwave specs said that 14" was the deepest that cabinet could be so would you just make the 12" cab 11 1/4" to account for the extra build out of the base board on there, or only do it on the ones that go to the ceiling? By the time to take away 3/4 for the ff and 3/4 for the back you've only got 9.5 for a shelf.
Brandon - I disagree and unfortunately so does my wife about the usefulness of pullouts on the pantry. That is a thirty inch deep cabinet that starts 6' off the ground. At the most, you may be able to use half of it with out using a step ladder. We have a cabinet 30x36 over our fridge and the whole back half is wasted or stuff gets back there and goes bad. I have made the entire depth of the cabinet usable one half at a time. the pullouts are perfect for bags of chips, cereal boxes, etc. Maybe you just can't tell from the picture. I will take one of it in use in next week and get it on here, but there is no way just a standard cupboard would be a better use unless you were storing something that was 30" deep.
I agree the drawer is large. I did not design the cabinet in 1970 or whenever it was built. I just took what was there and made it match the kitchen. I guess in hind sight I could have made one drawer front that looked like two skinny ones, but the way the cabinet was built, modifying it to re-size a drawer would have easily doubled the cost of the work I did to it. I guess to answer your question, the reason why it is that deep is because it is the same drawer that was on there with a new drawer front. Thanks for your comments, especially the finish comment. I have kind of felt that the way I beat stock cabinets is my ability to make a cabinet fit whatever size and be able to make some random cabinet in a different room match the others I just did, but the way they beat me is by having a perfect finish perfectly applied. So getting a compliment on finish makes me feel better about the quality of my product. Thanks,
PK

Peter I'd like to see the pull outs in action, will be making a new kitchen at home (which would have a cabinet over our American style fridge) in the next few months and trying new things in my own kitchen would give me a better understanding of how it works when you sell it to a customer. With regards to finish i use Kremlin Airless systems this gives a gun finish with out the need to wirewool back or wax. Also a little tip whenever you can always go for a matt finish with a high build lacquer it gives more depth to the clear coat and looks better quality. I have seen many a piece of average furniture been transformed by a good finish.

Hello there,
I added some pictures with the pullouts above the pantry.

I see what you mean they really do make sense now. The only thing is now you need a step to come out of the bottom so my wife who is only 5'3" can reach them.

The finish looks great. Wonderful stain color. This is a nice kitchen.