Pedestal Dining Table in Cherry

Listing #3283 Listed on: 04/30/2011 Company Name: Hudson Cabinetmaking, Inc.
Name: Russell Hudson Member

On 3/19, I had posed a question on the 'professional furniture making' forum about edge joining planks to make a 'dining table top'. There were 32 responses about the the best way to arrange the boards so that the top remained flat over time. A lot of contradiction-al views about the best way and why. I learned a lot in-spite of all the conflicting approaches.
One of the moderators at WW asked that I rewrite the thread for a project gallery post. I won't reiterate the table top discussion here. I just wanted to describe the over-all construction of this small table we were asked to fabricate for a client.
We were to build a 42" round, pedestal, dining table in cherry. Cost was an issue so we bought the column and legs and only had to make the table's top, construct the parts and finish it. No skirt. Just a single center 'stretcher', sitting underneath at 90 degrees to the table top's planks.
We purchased 6/4 cherry rough, jointed and planed the planks to 5/4, dead straight and square. Aligned the boards to achieve a 42' round without any sapwood.
We used double stacked biscuits every 10 inches or so, glued all edges completely, pipe clamped and (with a wet rag) removed all the glue that had seeped from all the seams.

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Posted By:Jamie Marr
Nice work!
Posted By:brandon collins
Nice work Russell.


The pedestal top plate/stretcher was the right choice. I use this method all the time. The elongated holes CMT actually make a router cutter for this. If you are making these regular it is quicker. Also, for routing the top, if it's rough cut using a bandsaw jig or jigsaw you can instead use the compass router jig and make your own clean up cut. With the router use an up/down shear cut straight cutter as this eliminates any tearout you normally get with straight fluted bits.
How did you fix the feet to the pedestal?
Posted By:Russell Huds
I guess you're referring to a spiral, up-cutting bit like CNCs use. Right? Good idea. Thx.
There are bolts running from the leg's tops to the inside of the column(hollow), Brandon.
Posted By:Larry
I think he is talking about a compression spiral Like used on CNC, pulls up from the bottom & down from the top. No chips either side. Nice bits $40 to $60.
Posted By:Russell Hudson
I get it now. Two blades, each on an angle to cut towards the center to minimize tear out. Great idea when you think of it.
I always learn something when I hang out with 'this crowd'. Thx,
Posted By:Bob Schilke
Nice work Russel! DriCote is good stuff. The up/down router bit is a good one. Amana has them in solid carbide. . Worth the bucks. I've had 2 for about 6 years now, one is 4" x 1/2", cost $125.00 really good for wrong way grain. The other is 3" x 1/2", no bearing, it was $60.00 Also worth it. Very nice table. Have you tried spline joining with the same material as your workpiece? I make the splines with the grain in the same direction as the pieces I'm joining. Don't know if it's right or wrong. Just know that it works for me. Though I haven't joined material quite as wide as the table you created. Kudos Russel.
Posted By:Russell Hudson
Dricote is NOT silicone based (my mistake) and if I was to use a spline joint (been quite a few years since I have) I'd probably use 1/4" ply. Using any solid stock with the grain running in the same direction defeats the purpose. How could it be any stronger than simply edge joining the boards. If I'm wrong here, I'd love to hear about it (and why of course)

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