A Very Short Piece of Matching Moulding

      What are you going to do when some old door casing mouldings have been cut off just an inch short of the floor? Here are some great ideas for making the match. April 12, 2013

A renovation to a master bedroom I’m currently working on has left the door casings short of the floor about 1". The house is a Victorian with wide and thick profiles not found in stock. Custom reproduction is not the client’s first choice due to budget. I've never dealt with this situation. I figure there's a product that can be smashed in to fill the gaping hole and then carved to the profile. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Forum Responses
(Architectural Woodworking Forum)
From contributor P:
You could create plinth blocks as an option.

From contributor J:
Plinth blocks are a great idea, or perhaps you could try upper rosette blocks? If the casing detail cannot be changed then short molding pieces are easily duplicated on a band or scroll saw by sawing them out vertically and joining them to the ends of the existing casings. This is patchwork of course, but if done properly should be acceptable (paint-grade should be imperceptible).

From contributor M:
Plinth blocks are a great idea. If that's not an option, look inside the closet. If the profiles match you can cut casing from the inside of closet doors to patch the visible ones, or switch them if they are longer. Then you can use plinth or a reasonable match to fix the unexposed closet casing.

From contributor H:
If the client will agree to the cost you can have knives made to match the existing profile. Then you can run a single length of casing to replace one in an inconspicuous location. This removed piece can be cut into short segments to fill the gaps.

From contributor F:
All great ideas shared so far. Here's one more that’s just a little off-the-wall for you though. You could use hand tools to make a short length of molding close enough to patch in.

Depending on the exact profile the easiest would be to grind an inexpensive card scraper as close as you can to the profile. Then using an appropriate easy to work wood, say poplar, you can scrape the profile in. Cut the pieces to the length you need and glue in place.

If it's a deeper profile then you may have to step up to a beading tool. You may find one for a low price at the local used tool shop. I've done a couple moldings over the years with a beading tool and a couple of extra blades when I needed a few feet of something for similar renovation type situations.

From contributor A:
One option is to use a block of wood to fill up space, and then use fiber re-enforced bondo to make the profile.

The comments below were added after this Forum discussion was archived as a Knowledge Base article (add your comment).

Comment from contributor K:
I would use an epoxy fill stick. It's easy to press into any shape (like Playdough) then it can be carved to make fine adjustments or sanded. I then would follow with a matching stain and graining pens to blend it all in. A little sealer/topcoat and it magically disappears.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?

Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Millwork Installer

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Millwork Restoration

    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.

    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2021 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB

  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article