Guys,
I'm stuck with fixing a previous cabinet maker's work. The situation is the client didn't like how he nailed through the faceframes and then finished onsite with a light stain(looks terrible). My saving grace is the doors I will be replacing will be full overlay.
What I have to do is veneer the faceframes with 10 mil paperback. Not ideal, but the strips will be no wider than 3". My plan is to rip the strips wide, and file in place (light stain should be ok). My thinking is a roll on adhesive, and I have had mixed experiences with contact cement. Does anyone know of a good adhesive roll on? I will be finishing my strips in the shop, which will be a campbell product (WB conditioner,sealer,topcoat, solvent stain)
Any advice on products to use, or even tweaking how I'm going to do this would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Ben
From contributor Ri
Do you not like the peel and stick the refacers use? fastcap.com has some nice accesories and install videos
From contributor Be
I've heard that the tape can come off after a few years?
From contributor Je
I would go peel and stick, or if your worried....spray adhesive. You have to be a little more careful spraying the FF's, but much quicker and easier spraying the veneer.
good luck,
JeffD
From contributor Ri
I did one kitchen with the peel and stick, never heard from them, but I've also heard that paper back can have trouble with contact cement and finishes. Take your choice? LOL
From contributor ka
If you choose to use the peel and stick make sure the adhesive on the back is a 3M adhesive. The most important step after you acclimate your veneer is that you apply enough pressure to the newly applied veneer. (This goes for contact cement applications too.) In order to apply enough pressure stay away from J-rollers and use a veneer hammer or scraper instead. The point on a very slightly rounded veneer scraper will give you more PSI as you "burnish" the veneer down. (you can buy veneer scrapers or make one out of a scrap poplar or maple 1 x 3 or 1 x 4 stock. cut 16" to 18" long and bevel one edge. ease that edge and corners and use the point to scrape the veneer.) Remember to go with the grain and do a final sanding before you apply your finish. Good luck!
From contributor St
The contact issue with finish is using solvent based contact. Classic blistering/bubbling will occur.
Use WilsonArt water-based contact and you will be fine. We use this all the time.
I would suggest WOW veneer versus the paper back for this application.
Good luck.
