Angle Jig for a Vertical Panel Saw

For simple 45-degree rips, a jig is cheap and easy to make. August 8, 2006

I am in the process of buying a new Streibig compact for my shop and wanted to include the angle attachment until I saw how much it is! I will mostly need to cut the angles for corner cabinets, so 45 degrees is really all that is necessary. Does anyone make a jig for this saw or should I spend the $3700 on their jig? I do have a Unisaw but want that to be dedicated for dados.

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor A:
Save your money. We cut an accurate symmetrical 90 degree V notch in a scrap piece of plywood which we place on the rollers or the mid shelf with the V pointing up then place the piece that needs to be 45ed on it and rip. It works every time.

From contributor B:
I agree. It's pretty easy to make your own angle jig. Save your money or spend it on a compact plus for extra cutting length.

From the original questioner:
Thanks! I figured as much. Looking forward to getting an accurate saw that will go fast!

From contributor C:
I do it the same way, in the rip mode with a v block cut from MDF. My Standard saw had stops that set the head height and I have one just for upper 45 cabinets. I also have them for ripping and my normal dimensions. Not sure if the saw you are getting has them but if not, consider up-grading the saw you get. You will never be sorry.

From the original questioner:
I wonder what is the best way to get consistent rips on this panel saw? I have been using the rip gauge to make drawer parts. The problem is that the long rips of 9" and 4" melamine were not quite exact enough for the parts to be consistent. What is the best way to cut smaller strips? I did this batch with a reverse cut to score the material first. Not sure if that would cause the problem.

From contributor C:
I blank drawer parts on the Streibig then cut for length and re-cut final width on a table saw. I use drawer front fixing adjusters and need accurate sizing between each piece as the hole was precision drilled in both the drawer end and the mating hole in the drawer front. Getting consistent rips when changing the repeat cutting tape wasn't possible for me (tolerances less than a .5mm) because of the stress in the board stock. It just made sense to do it that way.