Avoiding Glaze Ghosting

Advice on how to apply glaze in a tight area without ghosting into other areas. January 18, 2011

We have a set of cabinet doors to glaze and I'm trying to head off a potential problem I've seen before. These are painted raised panel doors. Off-white Optiset from Chemcraft. The glaze (Gemini product) will be a brown of some sort and is to be applied so as to accentuate all of the lines around the door. For example, around the field in the raised panel, around the intersection of the panel and the frame, around the step formed on the edge detail. I'd call this a clean, straight line glaze, as opposed to a dirty glaze where the entire door is slathered and then wiped off. Hope that makes some sense.

What we've encountered in the past is what I call ghosting. We're trying to place glaze, as much as possible, only where it should be - in tight straight lines around all the steps formed in a 5 piece door. However, the glaze tends to bite in too much and we've been able to see where excess glaze was wiped off.

The Optiset will have cured 3 or 4 days before we glaze. Cleanup is done with mineral spirits. I've tried wetting the area with mineral spirits to help flow the glaze and reduce the bite, and that may help some. Suggestions?

In the past we've tried spraying a high gloss clear coat over the paint because it's slick and shields the paint, but this seems excessive. My instinct is to lay a thin coat of vinyl sealer over the paint for the same effect. The same amount of work, but less build.

Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor D:
I call what you are looking to do "pin stripping" vs. "glazing." Personally, I think the point of glaze is to add depth and mimic age. The depth comes from dark color in the details as well as the change to the base color (and areas in between that show the mid range of the glaze color).

That said, you can use a glaze marker (ML Campbell makes some I think) to get the look you mentioned.

From contributor J:
CAT makes a gun called the Tech Jr and it has a glazing tip that is used for just this purpose. I have the gun and it does work very well.

From contributor B:
Gemini has glaze pens too, and the glazing gun for pin-striping.

From contributor E:
Yes - use a glazing gun such as the CA Tech's TJR Glaze Setup.

From contributor M:
I did a kitchen a while back with line glazing in the crevices and steps only (like you). I made it easy on myself by not using a true glaze requiring a lot of rag work, but by just mixing universal pigment (burnt umber) with acetone and spraying it where I wanted it with a small cup gun. It dried extremely fast and I removed the excess spray with a scotch brite pad, at the same time rubbing down the rest of the door. I got no ghosting. But I was spraying over a clear coat which was not rubbed out prior to my dry glaze.