We currently build all frameless (panel saw, band, line bore), screw assembly with applied finished ends. Bases on levelers (only toe notch finished ends). We are investigating blind dados (nested based on a router) to speed things up and eliminate finished ends. If you completely enclose the backs to help square things up, in other words a stopped dado on cab sides with mating through the dado on the underside of the top and top side of the deck, don't you have to run these dados as a secondary op?
It would seem they are on the opposite side of the tongue your cutting. I assume you don't want to CNC machine both side of a board. Or, is everybody cutting tops and bottoms shallow with a through dado for the back? Then you have to shoot fasteners to hold the back rather than strictly glue and clamp. A 1/4" back with a nailer "snuck in" behind it seems like an assembly nightmare or have you gone with a 3/4 back (on bases). Lastly, as mentioned earlier, we currently build a square (30" box) base and extend (4") and toe notch applied ends only. With a blind dado, do we lose the legs (along with the finished ends) and notch every cab side?
From contributor R:
You are right about having to machine both sides. It is called a 'flip'. We don't build bases we build captured backs to save on flips. The sides are only full dadoed. The deck and top back stretcher are lapped, stapled and a 3/4" nailer applied. The decks of wall cabinets require a flip. We run the deck back to the wall and capture the back on 3 sides. I also use legs on my base cabinets. Just because you’re using dados doesn't mean you have to stop using legs.
I had been wondering whether I could "get away" with wrapping the base with toe material rather than run the side to the floor. On your 3/4 back, if I understand, you are notching a rabbitt on the long sides of the back and inserting into the cab so you've got wood to wood glue surface, not just "planting it on." When you band that thin (3/8 lets say) edge are you manually trimming? My bander copy wheels are about 18mm away from the cutters and about 8mm thick (this is why I asked about them dropping into the dados earlier).
I’ve never had a structural failure in 27 years. This includes library units and bookshelves for major bookstore chains. I have a Detel pneumatic pocketholes borer with foot pedal and an extension table on each side so that 8' panels go real fast. You can set up a fence system with flip stops from Kreg very cheaply to accomplish this or just have markings on a makeshift fence as accuracy is not essential for a back. I also use the same system for 1/2 and 5/8 drawer bottoms in pre-finished ply or melamine.
In this case this can be an end cabinet, the side and back are finished; the edgebanding goes on the end of the back 3/4" thick. Looking at the back of the cabinet you see a nice veneer, looking at the side you see a joint 3/4" wide in the veneer. (The side piece and the edgebanded end of the back). It’s way stronger and cleaner than a rabbited joint.