Drilling for Closet Shelf Holes

Matching hardware to drilling equipment for efficient closet shelf fabrication. April 27, 2011

I've never done closets before and was wondering if someone could answer some questions for me. I want to take advantage of my Ritter R-46 but I was wondering if there was a problem using the set back of the drawer slides (front holes) I plan on using to mount the closet rod brackets on?

Correct me if I'm wrong - here's what I've researched so far: panels are 14" wide as a standard usually 84" high. Most attach on a cleat to the wall and don't rest on the floor. I plan on using the hardware from Hafele for this. Do the Rafix 20 connectors make sense for attaching the selves to the sides? I don't have a CNC so any drilling for the Rafix would have to be done on my drill press. Will this be a pain or is it doable? Is there another solution? Pocket screws? Some other hardware I haven't found? I don't plan on doing many of these so I don't want to spend too much on tooling, but will to what I have to for a quality product.

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor P:
The Rafix connectors should be fine. We are primarily a closet company and use them exclusively for these installations. Here, we bore the Rafix holes 37MM from the front edge, and 94.5 MM from the back edge of our panels. Depending n which drawer slide you're using, you may want to alter the location of the back holes. A drill press with a 20MM bit should be a breeze. We altered a Grass hinge machine and set the stops to match and can knock out quite a few of these with little effort.

From contributor M:
I have been using the Minifix but I hate drilling three holes so I will start using Rafix now. I like that the setback for the face bore is compatible without dowel boring. It still means a bit change but at least only one and no secondary face bore.

From the original questioner:
Thanks for the info guys. Do you have a good source for the 20mm bit?

From contributor P:
Hafele carries them.

From contributor L:
I switched from Rafix to Minifix as soon as I got endbore. The Rafix are not nearly as precise as 7mm Minifix bolts in 7mm holes. The Rafix joints want to slide relative to the direction you tighten them, i.e. right forwards and left backwards. The sturdiest and easiest/fastest to install are the ones with a dowel, i.e. same number of holes as the Minifix. The Minifix are also significantly stronger (and no way a good bump to the bottom of the shelf will dislodge them) and nicer aesthetically (naked, with matching cover caps and/or all outfacing - no way Rafix works facing the ceiling). The only reason to use Rafix is if you don't have endbore or are doing wall-to-wall built-in-place.

From contributor G:
Before we got a CNC we did all of our Rafix drilling on the Ritter. Set a flip stop so that you can use the end bits on both heads to drill for the fittings. Drill all of your verticals, then switch to Rafix. This way you are not resetting the setback of the line bore. You drill all four holes in two strokes one left, one right.