Edge Bander Trimmer Adjustments

How to adjust an edge bander. November 20, 2008

I can't seem to adjust the top trimmer on my SCM K201E+ automatic edgebander. The scraper is taking off most of the excess material and jamming up the machine. Any tips out there?

Forum Responses
(Cabinetmaking Forum)
From contributor P:
Think of the top and bottom trim as a handheld Porter Cable router with a bit that has a ball bearing guide. You use two surfaces to guide the router bit; the face of the panel and the edge.

The edgebander top and bottom trim is equipped with a copy wheel and side copy shoe or wheel (according to brand and model). Just as you would adjust the cut of the Porter Cable router by raising and lowering the base in relation to the motor, with the top and bottom trim you raise or lower the copy wheel in relation to the cutter.

The side copy shoe/wheel is for setting the location of the cutter to the edge of the panel. If you have a combination cutter set with the ability to flush cut or radius cut, you will need to relocate the side copy shoe/wheel to access the correct portion of the cutter.

Why all these wheels? For perfect trimming you must copy the panel perfectly. That means the trim unit must float just like a handheld router. The copy wheel causes the cutter to float in relation to the panel face and the side copy shoe/wheel causes the cutter to float in relation to the panel edge. That is a benefit the gluepot machines have over most hot air banders.

How much float? Approximately 1/16" to 3/32". I have seen material that would not run in a straight line through the edgebander because the drag chain was so badly worn. To compensate for this, the side copy flotation must be increased, which can create other problems.

With your current question you need to back off the scrape and set the top and bottom trim first. Run a panel with the T&B trim on and watch closely to see if the top unit and bottom unit move back slightly as well as up and down when the panel enters the trim station.

Let's stay with the top unit. Once you understand the top, the bottom is identical. If the top unit does not float back, then adjust the side copy shoe/wheel in towards the panel about 2mm on the digital and try again until you see the top unit float back the 1/16" to 3/32" we discussed (about 2mm kickback for those who want it in metric).

Once you have established kickback on the side copy shoe/wheel, then start with the copy wheel fine adjustment for the cutter. Raise or lower according to taste.

When scraping your parts, leave about the thickness of notebook paper to scrape off. This removes cutter mark.

From the original questioner:
You just gave me the definitive bander adjustment explanation. I'm printing this out and taking it to the shop. Thanks a bunch.