Is anybody having problems with MLC Vintage Glaze? I just finished a project using Krystal sealer. The problems I'm having are:
1. Terribly short open time even with the 20% glaze extender added. I could barely just get the side of a raised panel cabinet done. I hate to think of trying to do an entertainment center.
2. It wrinkled in many of the recesses where the glaze hung. I allowed it to dry longer than the recommended time before recoating.
3. Poor adhesion, I can scratch it off. Everything was freshly sanded just before glazing.
I've been glazing with other products and CV for over ten years, so I'm familiar with the proper procedure. If you have any experience with this product, good or bad, please let me know.
From contributor B:
Is that a new glaze from MLC? I'm familiar with "amazing glaze" and their regular linseed oil glaze but not "vintage" glaze.
He has been here looking at the issues. The only thing that we could see that could have been a problem as far as adhesion is that I let the sealer dry over the weekend. I did, however, sand it freshly just before glazing.
You should check with MLC via your rep or their web-site, but I'm about positive this should work with the Krystal or CV from them as well. One thought I had about the original post was the re-coat window requirements. You said you allowed it to dry longer than the recommended time. The traditional glaze has a re-coat window of 6 hours, then 48 hours if you miss the 6. That could have had something to do with it.
I started out 30 years ago using Star and Mohawk glazes and they had the same tedious recoat window rules such as being described here and we continually pulled our hair out with adhesion problems from waiting too long or blushing white because the oil or solvent in the glaze wasn't dry enough to shoot over. Once I started making my own glaze with UTCs I never went back.
Of course it doesn't have the open time that a heavy bodied glaze will have, but I learned to work with it and being able to shoot right over it and not have so many issues is worth a lot.
I'm also wondering if you have tried the powder glaze. I use a Becker product in my 2k urethane schedule and it works very well. I haven't used the MLC version amazing glaze, but this type of glaze is designed for ease of use and good compatibility with catalyzed coating systems which are more finicky about layering glazes in-between coats.
Also, contributor T, when I said I has allowed it to dry longer than the time, I meant longer than the minimum time allowed. My rep came by the shop and took a sample I had made to send to Canada for the techs to look at. The finish on the ornate vanity I made comes off just by scraping it with your fingernail.
1 coat Clawlok primer
1 coat Resistant pigmented
Apply thinned glaze and remove within 45 minutes
1 or 2 coats Krystal
I’ve had no problems so far.
Wet glaze, especially over stain, gives a fantastic depth. Unfortunately it is a major pain to get in the profiles and wiped back - it is an art skill that must be developed by your highly paid, well-treated, frequently vacationed finisher.
That being said, the Amazing Glaze is superb for getting that "in the groove" issue solved. Spray it on, let it dry for a minute or so, and use a maroon or light brown (extra fine or ultra-fine) Scotch-brite pad to remove the excess glaze. I do not apply the glaze heavily at all to the face of the door, only to the profiles where build-up is desired.
For the face I very gingerly, lightly mist on a tad of it and then remove a good bit of it with the Scotch-brite. This is much more difficult on white/opaque’s, but a breeze on stains.
Contributor R - you said that you remove the excess within 45 minutes. I normally do it at the time of application. Do you spray your glaze on or brush? I have always sprayed mine on. I was talking to my MLC rep and he was surprised I sprayed it on, all his clients brushed theirs on. I can't see taking the extra time. How about you? What about drying time? Do you work within a recoat window?