Gluing P-lam to P-lam with Contact Cement

      Be sure to let the contact cement dry completely before applying the laminate. February 17, 2011

I have to re-laminate several full ht backsplashes at a school and have purchased a canister type glue spray rig to speed up the process. Any advice on how to prep the old p-lam surface? They are brand new and I cut a square inside corner because they were pre-laid up on 1/4 MDF and I was trying to trap them behind a post form top and upper cabs. Now they all are developing hair line cracks. Does anyone have any suggestions beside scoring with sandpaper and cleaning with denatured alcohol? This is my plan now.

Forum Responses
(Adhesive Forum)
From contributor B:
The canister glue works great but I don't know of any way to get around scuffing and cleaning to prep the surface. I've never tried not doing it either. It might be worth a test.

From contributor R:
I would not attempt it without breaking the melamine surface.

From contributor M:
Don't even try to break the surface finish of the old Formica by sanding if that Formica is relatively recent in origin. Plastic laminates made within the last ten years have aluminum oxide embedded in the surface layer, and that totally repels abrasion.

The good news is you don't have to. I've done Formica to Formica laminating for years with solvent based spray contact cement with great results. Just make sure you allow the contact cement to dry thoroughly before sticking on the new Formica. Unlike gluing to wood or particle board substrate, the glue line will not finish drying in place at all with Formica to Formica gluing since the glue cannot suck air from a porous surface (like wood) to finish drying.

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