When hanging an upper with 2 or 3 doors, do you account for twist in the wall? In hanging a French door I will pull cross strings from each corner of the jamb to ensure the jamb is in one plane and that the doors will line up. I have encountered numerous installs where the walls are out enough to cause a problem. Thoughts? What am I doing wrong?
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor F:
If I am hanging a cabinet like that where I am concerned about the doors, and there is not enough adjustability in the hinges to take care of some twist, I will use straightedges across the other cabinets, and then adjust the cabinet, while it is on the wall, by losing some mounting screws and tapping in some shims in one corner or the other to straighten the cabinet face out a little. I would probably hang the doors back on that particular cabinet to check them, before moving on to the other cabinets. It's always a good idea to check the walls carefully first, so you don't end up shimming everything else in a long run out to match one cabinet in the center on a bump.
Think of installing a 6' cabinet... In the center on the wall, the sheetrock bows because of plumbing. If you put the 6' cabinet up against the wall, it will teeter back and forth unless you put something behind it on each side to bring the surface of the wall out to meet the back of the cabinet, which eliminates the effect of the bow in the first place (i.e. shim). Your other, less appealing option is to go flat to the wall on one side and shim the other (which will be more dramatic and more likely to be seen on the ceiling line). This option is not the one to use, but rather the former.
Now, if it is not one 6' cab, but 2-3 cabs, you check for level as you are installing (under the bottom rail of the cab) and you also check for plumb (on the face of the cab). You also check for the cabinets to be flush cab-to-cab by laying a straight edge (preferably a 4' level) across the face of the adjoining cabs on the top and bottom. It should lay flat, and if not, it needs to be shimmed out more until it does...
It's always a good idea if you can to get to the job before the sheetrock goes up. That way you can check for potential problems and see where all the wires and plumbing go. (I know, in a perfect world.) Also if the GC will allow you, you can install blocking at that time to make install easier.