Hole Filling and Touch-Up for Lacquer-Based Solid Color Finishes

Advice on filling nail holes and joints in a lacquer "paint" finish. August 31, 2009

Question
What do you do (when installing pure white lacquer based painted cabinets) with the molding cracks that need caulking and holes that need filling? We have many times pushed customers to a paint and glaze finish over a pure solid color because we canít make the installation look good. A glazed finish "hides" the cracks and the holes touchup very good. Any tips?

Forum Responses
(Finishing Forum)
From contributor B:
Our installer had a giant kit of all kinds of these wax crayons. They were softer than normal crayons, and made specifically for filling holes from finish nailers. I'd try this, and as far as filling in a long run/crack/crevice from moldings, I'd just use a super thin bead of caulk and run your finger down it.



From contributor R:
Spackle for the nail holes, caulk for joints that might move, touchup brush and a can of blush eliminator.


From contributor R:
If the installer hasnít used the nail gun as if it was an AK47 on full auto, the wax sticks work quite well. Clear Epoxy thatís been tinted to match the final color works well too. For other joints you could get a tube of caulking, cut the bottom off of it, squeeze out all of the caulking onto a flat smooth surface and tint the caulk to match the final color, make sure to mix it up real well.

Take a putty knife and spoon the tinted caulking back into the tube, fold over the bottom of the tube of caulk and put a few wraps of duct tape to the bottom to keep the caulking in the tube. Snip off a small portion of the tip and caulk away.

Some installers donít use nails at all especially on the base molding. They use construction adhesive and rig up 2X4's as a clamp. If the crown molding needs a nail here and there, I rather they use a small tack hammer and a small brad. Less damage on the finished surface makes for a happy touch up person.