What's the best way to handle hot spots? Should I wait for the spots to dry completely before shooting over them? I'm using N.C. lacquers. I have found that shooting ML Campell WW vinyl sealer over the piece solves the problem--is this recommended? The thing I don't like about this vinyl sealer is that it is hard to sand and I always get a milky finish. My finish process is to seal with Nitro sanding sealer, then coat with water white gloss (which is when the hot spots usually crop up), then top coat.
I use a clean cotton rag, wet with water and wring out completely till damp. I lightly wipe over the shiny area, being careful not to damage the surface. Usually this will dry the spot.
I don't understand your process, though. You said you used a nitro sealer, then a water white gloss (this is where problem occurs), then a topcoat. I think if you eliminated the nitro sealer and used 2 coats WWVS, then the WW gloss (Klearplast) you would get better results. WWVS has less nitro in it to begin with--that is some of the reason it needs to dry completely to sand better. Always spray 4 to 5 wet mils. If too heavy on the wet mil, the evaporation time is longer for the solvents to escape. Keep using 320 grit paper between coats to scuff sand. This will allow each coat to melt into the other.
Lisa Gilbert, forum technical advisor
Bob Niemeyer, forum technical advisor