I would like some tips on increasing the moulder output at the shop I work at. It is me and one helper trying to run enough parts for about 20 kitchens a week. Each set has on average of 55 doors, so this means we have to mould all the face frames, door rails, drawer fronts and sides, countertop splash and edge banding, several different sizes of crown moulds and all the other specialty parts needed to complete this task. About 25 different products.
The moulder is a Profimat 23. We use a small slr and a 24 inch gang saw to rip with. We use stacking cutter heads and spiral insert heads when possible. This moulder runs virtually all day long. On paper, this sounds possible, but by the time we forklift lumber in, set up machines, sharpen knives, etc., we always fall short of our needs. If anybody has any techniques they would like to share, we are listening.
(Solid Wood Machining Forum)
From contributor R:
Here are a few things you could try. First, I assume your feed rate is about 30 feet per minute. Try to run your profiles with the least amount of cutterhead changeovers. When you run crown, run all the different ones in the same day. This way, you're only changing the top head and adjusting the heights of the bevels, assuming there are the same back bevels. Try to get it so you not changing so many cutterheads in each setup. This will reduce setup time.
How do you like your P23? They had a few setbacks with that model.
In the tool room:
1. Find and use the best grinding wheel for your tool steel. Avoid constant trials of wheels, as this reduces your efficiency.
2. Find and use the best coolant for your machine, operator and application. Once again, avoid constant change.
3. Find and use the best grade of tool steel for your application. At most, use 2 grades of HSS and carbide. Avoid constant changing.
4. Learn and follow the same grinding process and use axial constant.
5. Grind the tools to within + or - 1/16" (1 corrugation) in radius.
On the moulder, some simple rules of thumb:
1. Use axial constant. If it is not right, find out why and fix it. This will reduce normal setup time by about 60%.
2. Schedule similar profiles.
3. Schedule similar widths of profiles to avoid having to change feed rollers.
4. Schedule rough stock profile separate from rerun profile. Once again, this will avoid having to change feed rollers.
5. Convert all locks to quick locks and avoid wrenches when possible.
6. If your machine has counters on the spindle adjustments, use them.
7. Always eliminate backlash in the same direction.
8. Have the next set of prepared tooling at the moulder ready to go.
9. Have all working tools and wrenches at machine in easy reach.
10. Have wood ready and waiting on the moulder.
11. Use automatic return system for bringing wood to the operator position.
12. Use automatic infeed feeder to allow single operator to both feed and offbear at the same time.
13. Keep machine maintenanced and aligned properly.
This moulder was kinda quirky when I first started using it. It was well used by others before me, so if it had any problems, I wouldn't have known it. We gave it a going over a few years back and it still works fine. The fence gets out of alignment pretty easily, but we have learned to spot this quickly when we mic. our parts. Overall, I think it is a decent machine - easy to set up and use.