I am preparing to finish a set of cabinets with a tinted conversion varnish. They will be an off white color. The cabinets will be made with maple veneer goods and the face frames made of German beech. The doors will be flat panel shaker style with German beech frames and MDF panels. I have done some work with this type of finish some years ago using MLC Clawlock for a primer and resistant for a top coat that was tinted, and had no issues.
This go, I am trying one of two different finishing schedules:
1. MLC Clawlock, and their new Stealth topcoat tinted
2. Gemini Conversion Varnish both as a sealer and top coat - not the premium CV as it is not available in a white base to start.
Also both of these are a semi gloss/satin sheen finishes, prepared just as the manufacture requires, and all coats were shot at 4-4.5 mils thick as prescribed. I have already prepared some samples of these on both plywood and hardwood. The Gemini product worked well but with its lower solids content it tends to show any imperfections/irregularities. I have spent a lot of time on the sanding schedule and have worked hard to remove and or fill anything as needed. Thus it will most likely require an additional coat of primer and another sanding step!
The MLC route worked really well in filling in these minute imperfections building up quicker and performed as well as I remembered them to. The only problem I am having with both of these is that after the finish has dried you can see a fine line where the rail and stile meet. This was sanded completely level/smooth to the touch! I'm not quite sure what is going on here.
Could it be that the glue line is swelling just a little when it comes in contact with the finish? I did prepare both of the face frame samples, sand and then finish within an hour or so of building them. Would this be mitigated if it had a longer time to cure/dry out, say overnight? Or is this something that others have experienced when working with this type of finish? The line is small but noticeable with light at the right angle. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
From contributor G:
We used the same products (stealth with white vinyl primer), the same style doors and achieved the same results. We prepared the doors a day or two ahead of time and didn't have a problem until the primer was applied. We just puttied the joint after the primer and they disappeared. Definitely a paint and I'm not sure why this happens or what can prevent it.