Kitchen and Cabinet Crown Molding

      Matching the molding details when cabinets meet the ceiling. May 4, 2005

When installing upper cabinets all the way to the ceiling, what do I do where the cabinet crown meets the ceiling crown? Stained cabs with painted trim. Do I run matching crown around the whole kitchen? Will this look right with the rest of the trim being painted? I've never run into this before. The cabinets have always been lower with high ceilings, or I have done white cabinets and run matching crown the whole room. I build mostly furniture, but I'm gearing up for mostly cabinets. With most remodels having 8 foot ceilings and customers wanting a tall upper case, what's the best solution?

Forum Responses
(Cabinet and Millwork Installation Forum)
From contributor R:
The best look, I find, is to run the crown continuous around the kitchen. This may mean blocking down the uppers a couple inches and using a wider crown than a lot of cabinets get (and finishing to match). I feel it gives a more uniform look. The alternative is to pop off existing crown next to uppers and doing returns, just shy of cabinets and running cab crown to wall. This is a fair extra dollar in labor. When explained to customer, the extra involved and the better look with continuous, and the price difference (which won't be that much more, considering the cost of kitchen), it is just a little salesmanship. Another alternative is to cut crown just enough to install cabinets, then scribe cut cab crown into wall crown, which I don't feel looks as good, since you're usually dealing with two different sizes and styles of crown.

From contributor T:
If I understand you correctly, you're having to tie the stain-grade crown of your cabinets into a paint-grade crown in the rest of the room. My solution to this has been to put a square stain-grade block at the inside corners where the stain-grade and paint-grade crowns meet, making it slightly bigger in all dimensions than the crowns, so there is a flat surface for both of them to butt into. This creates a neat separation and looks better than having the two crowns meet at 90 degrees and change color on the joint.

From contributor M:
Quite a few of our built-ins are run to the ceiling. You can either run same finish trim all the way around or, like this bathroom, run paint grade around the rest of room. Either way, it really adds to the look. If you can't match details, you don't want to run any crown around room at all. Nothing looks worse than one kind of crown on cabinets and a different detail running around room and being coped in.

Click here for full size image

From the original questioner:
Thanks for the help. If I run crown the whole room, I just need to charge for it. I like the block idea. Sometimes I like using a wider/detail crown on cabs. That really wouldn't work with the rest of the room. I have seen a lot of crown that was installed upside down so coping would be tough. Now I have more options. By the way, nice cabinets above.

From contributor A:
I usually cope my crown into the trimmer's crown, but if you're the one doing the trim, I would run it like the picture above.

Would you like to add information to this article?
Interested in writing or submitting an article?
Have a question about this article?

Have you reviewed the related Knowledge Base areas below?
  • KnowledgeBase: Knowledge Base

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork

  • KnowledgeBase: Architectural Millwork: Moldings

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Installation

  • KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Residential Cabinetry

    Would you like to add information to this article? ... Click Here

    If you have a question regarding a Knowledge Base article, your best chance at uncovering an answer is to search the entire Knowledge Base for related articles or to post your question at the appropriate WOODWEB Forum. Before posting your message, be sure to
    review our Forum Guidelines.

    Questions entered in the Knowledge Base Article comment form will not generate responses! A list of WOODWEB Forums can be found at WOODWEB's Site Map.

    When you post your question at the Forum, be sure to include references to the Knowledge Base article that inspired your question. The more information you provide with your question, the better your chances are of receiving responses.

    Return to beginning of article.

    Refer a Friend || Read This Important Information || Site Map || Privacy Policy || Site User Agreement

    Letters, questions or comments? E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.

    Contact us to discuss advertising or to report problems with this site.

    To report a problem, send an e-mail to our Webmaster

    Copyright © 1996-2020 - WOODWEB ® Inc.
    All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without permission of the Editor.
    Review WOODWEB's Copyright Policy.

    The editors, writers, and staff at WOODWEB try to promote safe practices. What is safe for one woodworker under certain conditions may not be safe for others in different circumstances. Readers should undertake the use of materials and methods discussed at WOODWEB after considerate evaluation, and at their own risk.

    WOODWEB, Inc.
    335 Bedell Road
    Montrose, PA 18801

    Contact WOODWEB

  • WOODWEB - the leading resource for professional woodworkers

      Home » Knowledge Base » Knowledge Base Article