Painting and Glazing One Job in Two Locations
Advice on getting a consistent color response when finishing the doors in the shop, and the frames on site. June 18, 2010
I have the opportunity to do a paint and glaze job. I was wondering how difficult it would be to keep the color tones/glazed effects even between the cabs and doors if I were to finish the cabs onsite and do the doors back at my spray room?
From contributor S:
Do you know how to make a stepboard sample?
From the original questioner:
Yes I do, and keep it close by my side when finishing, but it is very easy to be just a little one way or the other when you are not able to step back and look at the big picture. I have done this type of finish before but not in this way.
From contributor Z:
I do this type of finishing all the time. Finish the shop work first then the on-site finishing. You can bring a finished door with you while doing the onsite work to check for color. If you are still unsure about it matching just install everything while your onsite masking is still up and blend it needed.
From contributor V:
I am guessing you are topcoating with Target 9000 and it may not apply with that finish, but with a lot of WB clears. If you put a thicker coat on the cabinet doors (sprayed flat especially) they will amber more than the vertical surfaces. Just something to look out for.
From contributor S:
Yes, I know it is easy to be a little one way or another and this is where the finesse comes in. So besides having a stepboard with you and a door if possible or if you have to work both locations in the same day (onsite daytime, shop at night), then the best thing you can do is to set your lighting up to be as close as possible to each other. Like if you are working kitchen cabs on site during the day and there is daylight flooding in then make sure that you try to supply lighting with similar CRI for your night time booth work. Also if you can regulate the climate control so that the two locations are similar it will help with your keeping your timing similar during drying times of stain etc. If you've taken care of those things you shouldn't have much trouble.
From contributor K:
Try to use the same lighting for both places. That seems to be the biggest difference in getting the match.
From contributor P:
The key to a consistent look of a glaze over paint is uniform glaze application and manipulation. If you do the doors at the shop first, you will probably establish a routine that will produce consistent results Jonathan. Just use the same routine on site to get the same effect from the glaze. Try to minimize the time between doing the doors and the cabinets so that the procedures are still fresh in your mind. If it's new work, why not just do the cabs at the shop also?