Why is it that my saw blade always gets pitch build up on the left side only? I have measured the fence to blade using a combination square , same tooth, front and back to make sure the fence is parallel.
I find the hardest thing to do for each job is making up face frame stock and having it all come out the same width. We used to rip 1/16 oversize then plane the edges but it seemed the edges would get out of square because the pieces would tip a bit.
The last job we ran one edge over the jointer then ripped 1/16 over size, then ripped again removing only 1/16 of material. The saw blade ( Forrest Woodworker 2) makes a much smoother cut when only removing that 1/16 of material. Last step, we kiss the edge on the edge sander before assembly. Seems like a lot of work but our frames come out nice every time.
Just got me wondering how other guys go about making up precise stock.
From contributor Ch
The only way to be sure your blade isn't healing is to use a dial indicator. I like the setup Woodcraft sells I think they call a Oneway? http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/126979/oneway-multi-gauge.aspx
It is an indicator mounted in a nice casting that is square and has 4 machined edges. Set your crosscut gauge on exactly 0, put the 4 way indicator against it and check the blade front to back (adjust trunion to crosscut gauge not gauge to blade), once this is correct you can adjust your rip fence by using the One way against the fence and checking blade front to back. Pitch on one side of the blade is almost always a product of the blade healing (dragging). Also while your at it make sure blade stays plumb during vertical moves - many do not!
From contributor Ke
I generally joint, rip, then gang up pieces and run them through the planer with good results.I use a Delta lunchbox planer with a 1/32" cut and get no snipe and square edges. You may need to tune up your planer. For slower but guaranteed square milled edges, run the jointed edge against an outboard fence on a powerfed shaper after ripping, climb cutting if necessary to eliminate tearout. You can also gang feed ripped stock through the wide belt sander. You can control for rolling of material by using a sled with fences at the edges and trailing end of ganged stock as you plane or sand them. If sanding, you need to keep the rips as consistent as possible to reduce sanding time; a power feed on the ripsaw can help here.
Double ripping and edge sanding seems unnecessarily laborious and inaccurate. The rip quality should be at least as good with the initial cut as when removing a final 1/16". The pitch buildup probably is caused by misalignment of the blade and fence, and Chris offers a good method for adjusting that.
From contributor Je
Thank you guys for your responses. I checked out the oneway gauge and that looks like a very useful tool so I will get one for sure.
I did not know a blade can go out of plumb in a vertical move, that will be interesting to see.
Kevin, your probably right that me planer needs a tune up. And I am interested in making a sled to use with the planer to keep the stock standing up straight.
Thanks again for your help guys!
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From contributor Bi
You don't saw what type of saw you're using. Regardless, the blade should be set parallel to the miter slot and the fence set parallel to the miter slot. If your fence doesn't lock parallel consistently either get in the habit of checking it, front and back, against the miter slot or consider replacing the fence.
My stock preparation method depends on the project. Furniture grade stock is face jointed, planed to thickness, edge jointed, ripped 1/4" over, cut edge jointed straight, ripped to 1/32" over (first jointed edge is the waste edge), then a final jointer pass to clean up the cut edge.
For cabinet work the stock is planed to thickness, jointed one edge, ripped 1/16" over, and run through the planer in groups. That helps keep the edges square.
From contributor Je
Bill, it is a Powermatic model 66.
Thank for your response.
From contributor Ji
n lieu of an S4S machine, why not run it thru a powerfed shaper with a sticking plate with outboard fence like offered by Weaver?
Yields dead on width and removes saw marks at same time. Would require two runs thru the machine to get both edges.
Would also eliminate chance for tipped and rolled over edges associated with jointing, planing or sanding on edge.
From contributor Br
We rough cut our stock on the SLR. Then it goes through the planer and sander on edge ganged up. I place the stock on edge and clamp or hold the stock tightly together. Then I run masking tape around the ends and remove the clamp etc. There is no need for a sled but I have used one on the past. I like taping the stock because you can run one edge through the planer then right through the sander and then the other face with minimal set up time. IF you don't have a sander you could still leave the pcs taped and hit them with an orbital or belt sander to speed that process as well
Before this method we ran all of our stock through the shaper with an outboard fence and a four wing cutter with replaceable carbides. If I'm doing a large volume the shaper is the way to go but for 10 -50 pcs the planer and sander is the fastest.
From contributor Bi
Edgetek makes a disc to use in the table saw for edge sanding that works really well for making face frame stock square, straight, and uniform width. It is beveled, so you need to set the bevel to 2 degrees and then just push the material through a few times. They have 80 & 120 grit discs; I like the 80 grit because it cuts fast and takes off enough material to get rid of saw marks, etc. quickly. It is a little work, but the stock comes out perfect, especially if you use it to sand the faces first (for stock that is not too wide). I find that a little work up front saves more work later on.