Sanding an Inside Profile
Cabinetmakers don't report much luck with machine sanding to remove cutter burns. July 11, 2007
Any suggestions on removing burn marks from the inside profile on hardwood RP doors? Mostly on the arched top rails is where I get them. I was hoping a profile flapper on a 3000RPM drill press would work. I don't want to have to make room for another machine but within reason, will do whatever I have to. I don't really want to drop a lot of loot just to sand the bead profile on an arched top rail. Can't see buying a shape and sand machine. Any low cost, yet still effective way to do this?
From contributor C:
I use Freud shaper knives at my shop. Never have a burn issue. What kind are you using?
From contributor J:
In a previous post you mentioned that you use the Weaver system, if I remember correctly. I'm sure you know that burn marks are indicative of dull knives or a bad feed rate. What kind of material are you arching? Goes without saying that you probably keep sharp knives handy, so I would suggest looking at the feed rate. As for sanding, we have the brush sanders (waste of time and money) and we have the shape and sand machine (Voorwood). It works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. (Real pain, if you ask me.) So that leaves the old fashioned way with a piece of sandpaper and good old elbow grease. We usually get burn marks on pecan/hickory and hard maple. Have to work on the feed rate on those two types. Another problem we've been getting is that the right side of the bead profile on our arches is flat. Just started this problem. We use a Weaver ring and template and this problem only happens on the standard arch, not the cathedral. Go figure.
From contributor L:
Save your money - the flapper won't do it. We have a profile sanding machine but taking out a burn usually doesn't happen. Sharp well profiled knives, faster feed.
From the original questioner:
I use Byrd insert heads, and can't imagine going back to Freeborn. Well I actually still have a lot of Freeborn and Freud, but I get service from Byrd that is 100% unbeatable, maybe because I'm pretty close to them, or they feel for a dumb country boy like myself. But they are sharp. Problem is really on the arches only - I can't feed but so fast by hand. Yes, I'm using Weaver manual clamp and jigs. Brand new inserts do better, but these are from dull. They will drag a groove in a fingernail like they were two days old. I will check the spindle speed. It's dedicated to arches. Maybe when I switched the head over I never checked to see what speed the belt was on, but I still would like to hit the profile before assembly.