Sawing for Wood-Turners

      Wood-turners, carvers, and other artists provide a market for figured wood in short lengths or chunks. December 6, 2011

As some of you know, I have been sawing quite a long time and I am also a wood turner. It was brought up on another site that when sawyers saw for turners, they forget about wood for hollow forms (vases).

We use square stock for this type of turning. I cut wood that is highly figured. Depending upon the turner, we can use 3x3 and larger. Some turners are looking for really large blocks. I generally cut the dimension pieces into shorter, more usable stock and put 2 coats of Anchorseal on the ends and any other source of end grain. For the rest of you, it would not probably be cost effective to cut the shorter pieces unless you had a specific request.

Forum Responses
(Sawing and Drying Forum)
From contributor T:
I made a jig for my LT40 specifically to cut shorts. Certain species that turners really love like flame boxelder are always in demand, and many of the trees grow with many crooks that have to be bucked into shorts to get on the mill anyway. So it does pay to cut shorts for stock in some cases. I guess there's an exception to every rule.

In my experience, any species with highly figured, spalted, burl, curl, or just about any other figured blanks don't lie around long, as long as you have developed a customer base and can offer them in an email blast to your clients. That's how I move out stock in a hurry, but I don't have to do it often. I usually already have a waiting list these days. I haven't been able to get into the bush often with all the rain and snow. The ground is still like play dough where I get that species.

If you aren't using email to your customer base, you're missing out on an easy way to move product. I use it for my other wood-related business also and it's highly effective. I don't know if this is relevant to anything you were asking about - or if you were even asking something.

From the original questioner:
I often cut stuff too short to fit on the center two rails. All I need is a board for the log to sit on and one as a backer between the supports. I have cut some blocks to hold the flat side at the right level after cutting one side. Sometimes I just use the block under the log rather than a board resting on the two center rails.

From contributor S:
I also have a shop vertical bandmill that will hold the sawmill saws. Just set the fence and push the small parts through. I picked it up at a scratch and dent sale, so the price was right.

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