Question
I have several problems with some resaw blades:
One blade (Timberwolf silicon blade: 131-1/2" x 7/8" x .035" - 3 pos c) has developed a crack starting from the base of the gullet to the back of the blade (see photo). What would cause this type of crack/rip? Should I try to repair it as is, or cut it completely and reweld it? I do not have a blade welder. Can it be brazed or soldered (I have the skills and tools to do either), or TIG welded (may be able to find one, and I have the skills also) or must it be a special welder?
I have a blade similar to the above that is bent just enough so it tracks wrong (got bent while trying to put it on and not paying attention). Can it be straightened? What is the best method to restore shape?
I have another blade (received from the factory) that was welded out incorrectly - it has an arch to the back of the blade. Must it be cut and rewelded to be corrected?
Forum Responses
(Sawing and Drying Forum)
From contributor N:
What type of machine do you use these blades on and how expensive are they? I have a Wood-Mizer LT 70 and I use the Wood-Mizer blades. If I had these problems I would probably just buy another blade, because it seems like what you would have to do to make your blades right would take enough time and money that you could purchase a different blade. As far as the crack, we get that if our blade has gotten hot due to misaligned blade guides. I have run other types of blades and I am pretty happy with the ones I get from Wood-Mizer.
If you know how to properly anneal the weld and re-anneal the whole blade then you could, but it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new one.
I'm as concerned, if not more so, about what is causing the problem as I am about repairing the blade. Of the possible causes listed above, running the feed too fast is the most likely, since the blade is still relatively sharp and the guides are fine. However I'm still confused as to what caused the direction of the crack - from the gullet toward the back as opposed to the opposite. I've pulled up all the troubleshooting info I could find and none of it mentions anything about a crack in this direction.
As for just tossing it out and getting a new one, well, right now I have a lot more time to waste than I do money, and I'm just one of those freaks that hates to throw away things that are partially broken (it only had 5 - 10 hours use on it).
As for the other blades... If it's possible to straighten them out in 10-15 minutes with a little bit of effort, why not? I would spend that much time ordering new ones and not getting the needed exercise.
I don't think you'll have much luck with welding these blades using the techniques you describe. Using a purpose-built band blade welder would do the job. But, by the time you cut out the bad sections, will there be enough length left to make a useable blade? Adding sections would correct any shortage. But I wonder about adding new pieces to an old blade - I have the feeling the new and the old would be too different in profile and flex to make a blade that would hold up.
Cooks has a band blade roller for bending a blade back flat. But it's intended to take the front to back cup out of blades that develops when they have been run on steel band wheels. I don't think it was intended to work out kinks. I've read posts by a couple others that said they took their time and hammered them out. But you need to be familiar with all aspects of band care and maintenance so you're sure the set is still okay, etc.
Actually $40 (including shipping) for a 1" (decent) blade is average. I don't believe Cooks had a blade I could use on my saw.
I'm resawing 8/4 (basswood, birch, ash) into 1/8" and 3/16" x 7" pieces. I do understand everyone's business attitude of "don't waste time if it's not producing money." However, currently this is not a full time gig for me and since money is tight and I have time to burn, I thought I would attempt to salvage what was a good blade. But I'm also not going to lose sleep over it.
Contributor E's posting about silver soldering was what I was hoping to hear. Even if I spend 2-3 hours in the shop and it doesn't work, better than 2-3 hours in front of the boob tube!
Again, I really appreciate the input. (To think not too long ago one would have to go down to the local pub after 5:00pm to get this much knowledge and advice!)
6/14 #22: Band Saw Blade Problems ...
Alan
alancooper@bucksbedrooms.co.uk
From contributor Z:
I have a large bandsaw, not a resaw, and run a 1 1/2 inch blade on it all the time. I used to get frequent breakages, often failing on the joint. I complained to the blade supplier and they said it was due to not slackening off when not in use. Used too frequently for that bother, but since slackening off a bit, have not had to change the blade for absolutely ages, so observation is too tight a blade can increase breakages. I also think a good traditional blade weld is better than a modern machine made joint. I am in the UK and Quicksharp near Buckingham do traditionally welded blades which are very good.
Common Lumber Name | A | B | C |
Hardwoods | |||
Alder, Red | 9.9 | 19.2 | 2506 |
Apple | 10.9 | 31.7 | 4132 |
Ash, Black | 9.3 | 23.4 | 4132 |
Ash, Green | 14.3 | 27.6 | 3590 |
Aspen, Bigtooth | 10.3 | 18.7 | 2439 |
Aspen, Quaking | 10.3 | 18.2 | 2373 |
Basswood | 6.2 | 16.6 | 2174 |
Beech, American | 8.9 | 29.1 | 3793 |
Birch, Paper | 8.8 | 25.0 | 3260 |
Birch, Sweet | 11.9 | 31.2 | 4065 |
Birch, Yellow | 9.2 | 28.6 | 3723 |
Buckeye | 8.9 | 17.2 | 2235 |
Butternut | 11.3 | 18.7 | 2440 |
Cherry | 13.8 | 24.4 | 3184 |
Chesnut, American | 11.6 | 20.8 | 2708 |
Cottonwood | 8.5 | 16.1 | 2102 |
Dogwood | 6.8 | 33.3 | 4331 |
Elm, American | 10.2 | 23.9 | 3116 |
Elm, Rock | 12.2 | 29.6 | 3860 |
Elm, slippery | 11.5 | 25.0 | 3251 |
Hackberry | 11.8 | 25.5 | 3319 |
Hickory, Bitternut (Pecan) | 14.7 | 31.2 | 4062 |
Hickory (True) | |||
Hickory, Mockernut | 9.1 | 33.3 | 4332 |
Hickory, Pignut | 9.3 | 34.3 | 4332 |
Hickory, Shagbark | 10.9 | 33.3 | 4333 |
Hickory, Shellbark | 6.6 | 32.2 | 4195 |
Holly, American | 8.3 | 26.0 | 3387 |
Hophornbeam, Eastern | 7.9 | 32.8 | 4266 |
Laurel, California | 15.1 | 26.5 | 3456 |
Locust, Black | 21.2 | 34.3 | 4470 |
Madrone, Pacific | 7.8 | 30.2 | 3925 |
Maple (Soft) | |||
Maple, Bigleaf | 12.8 | 22.9 | 2980 |
Maple, Red | 13.1 | 25.5 | 3318 |
Maple, Silver | 12.4 | 22.9 | 2981 |
Maple (Hard) | |||
Maple, Black | 12.3 | 27.0 | 3523 |
Maple, Sugar | 12.3 | 29.1 | 3793 |
Oak (Red) | |||
Oak, Black | 11.7 | 29.1 | 3792 |
Oak, California black | 16.4 | 26.5 | 3455 |
Oak, Laurel | 6.3 | 29.1 | 3791 |
Oak, Northern red | 13.6 | 29.1 | 3793 |
Oak, Pin | 13.0 | 30.2 | 3928 |
Oak, Scarlet | 13.2 | 31.2 | 4065 |
Oak, Southern red | 9.6 | 27.0 | 3520 |
Oak, Water | 10.4 | 29.1 | 3793 |
Oak, Willow | 6.4 | 29.1 | 3790 |
Oak (White) | |||
Oak, Bur | 15.4 | 30.2 | 3928 |
Oak, Chestnut | 10.1 | 29.6 | 3858 |
Oak, Live | 17.5 | 41.6 | 5417 |
Oak, Overcup | 10.7 | 29.6 | 3860 |
Oak, Post | 11.0 | 31.2 | 4063 |
Oak, Swamp chestnut | 10.7 | 31.2 | 4063 |
Oak, White | 10.8 | 31.2 | 4062 |
Persimmon | 7.0 | 33.3 | 4332 |
Sweetgum | 8.9 | 23.9 | 3115 |
Sycamore | 10.7 | 23.9 | 3115 |
Tanoak | 9.0 | 30.2 | 3926 |
Tupelo, Black | 10.4 | 23.9 | 3116 |
Tupelo, Water | 12.4 | 23.9 | 3115 |
Walnut | 13.4 | 26.5 | 3454 |
Willow, Black | 8.6 | 18.7 | 2438 |
Yellow-poplar | 10.6 | 20.8 | 2708 |
Common Lumber Name | A | B | C |
Softwoods | |||
Baldcypress | 13.2 | 21.9 | 2844 |
Cedar, Alaska | 14.4 | 21.9 | 2844 |
Cedar, Atlantic white | 10.9 | 16.1 | 2100 |
Cedar, eastern red | 16.4 | 22.9 | 2981 |
Cedar, Incense | 13.1 | 18.2 | 2371 |
Cedar, Northern white | 11.1 | 15.1 | 1964 |
Cedar, Port-Orford | 12.6 | 20.2 | 2641 |
Cedar, Western red | 12.2 | 16.1 | 2100 |
Douglas-fir, Coast type | 12.3 | 23.4 | 3049 |
Douglas-fir, Interior west | 13.2 | 23.9 | 3116 |
Douglas-fir, Interior north | 14.0 | 23.4 | 3048 |
Fir, Balsam | 9.9 | 17.2 | 2236 |
Fir, California red | 10.6 | 18.7 | 2437 |
Fir, Grand | 10.7 | 18.2 | 2371 |
Fir, Noble | 10.1 | 19.2 | 2507 |
Fir, Pacific silver | 10.4 | 20.8 | 2711 |
Fir, Subalpine | 10.5 | 16.1 | 2101 |
Fir, White | 12.2 | 19.2 | 2506 |
Hemlock, Eastern | 12.6 | 19.8 | 2573 |
Hemlock, Western | 11.5 | 21.8 | 2847 |
Larch, Western | 11.3 | 25.0 | 3251 |
Pine, Eastern white | 12.3 | 17.7 | 2303 |
Pine, Lodgepole | 11.5 | 19.8 | 2576 |
Pine, Ponderosa | 12.6 | 19.8 | 2573 |
Pine, Red | 12.2 | 21.3 | 2777 |
Southern yellow group | |||
Pine, Loblolly | 12.9 | 24.4 | 3183 |
Pine, Longleaf | 15.0 | 28.1 | 3658 |
Pine, Shortleaf | 12.9 | 24.4 | 3183 |
Pine, Sugar | 12.6 | 17.7 | 2302 |
Pine, Western white | 10.0 | 18.2 | 2370 |
Redwood, Old growth | 14.9 | 19.8 | 2573 |
Redwood, Second growth | 13.2 | 17.7 | 2302 |
Spruce, Black | 11.3 | 19.8 | 2575 |
Spruce, Engelmann | 10.0 | 17.2 | 2234 |
Spruce, Red | 10.6 | 19.2 | 2506 |
Spruce, Sitka | 10.8 | 19.2 | 2506 |
Tamarack | 12.0 | 25.5 | 3318 |