Iím changing my procedure for door making. My current setup is a single end tenoner and one shaper. The setup for the sticking was to use outboard fences and a power feeder. This setup was very accurate but time consuming to change the fences. Iím now trying the split fence that came with the Powermatic shaper. This setup is much faster than my old method. Iíve noticed a few problems. Some of the pieces were cutting on a taper, but not all. A few looked to be cutting the long edge concave. It was taking more off in the middle of the piece and less near each end. Iím wondering what methods others use for their setups. I did setup the far fence with a dial indicator to make certain the fence surface and the cutter was on the same plane. I think some of the problem is the speed. I have the power feeder set. Itís now on the second lowest speed and this is needed to eliminate burning on the edge of the Cherry parts. The speed is still faster than I would like and itís difficult to be certain the piece stays against the fence. I also tried adding a feather board under the power feed to add side pressure but Iím not certain this has been an asset.
From contributor A:
I don't use the fence that comes with the machine. I use the miter slot as a guide and fit a board in the slot and position the power feeder pushing against it. I use different width boards which will give me different width cuts. The pieces never move toward the cutter head when run which ruins them. I can change back and forth to different widths in seconds. Also, make the boards 5/8 thick so the power feeder will only grab the board running, not the fence.