Veneer Folding

05/15/2014


From original questioner:

Hello...I am trying to fold 5/8 veneer panels to achieve a 3' thick panel..I am using a insert style cutter with a 91 degree insert. I am having some issues with fraying and torn edges and was wondering if there are some tips to getting a clean miter. I am using particle core panels and cutting the miter at a depth of LPZ+.1mm..any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

From contributor ri


Are you pre taping before you cut?

From contributor Ad


i did use tape with somewhat better results but still not the quality I am after..It is a lower end bit so I suppose a more expensive bit would provide a better result..

From contributor Bo


I found that the 90 degree worked better than the 91 for me. you have to get the tape and depth just right too, takes a little trial and error. Make sure the table is milled flat first and also make sure your material is pulling down flat consistently. Mdf core works best for folding but particle board should be okay if you get it just right.

From contributor Bi


You are trying to cut into the veneer a bit, don't stay short of it. Make sure you tape first and use a good quality packing tape not masking tape or something like that.

From contributor Ma


I am with Bobby, the 90 degree works best for me. The problem with any of this is the sharp tip of the bit really does not work perfectly. At the sharp point there is no real scraping motion to "cut" it kind of pushes the material out of the way.
I generally cut about 1/32 through the material, into the spoilboard. I use 3 or 4 passes for 3/4 material, the last pass being just a very light skim pass.

After cutting I turn the parts over and hand align them. Like Bill I use good quality packing tape. Carefully align the pieces, overlapping the sharp edges just a few10ths of a mm so there is a little pressure on the tips as the tape folds.

With a little practice you can even make perfect veneer cubes. Some veneers are more difficult than others, I find maple or cherry to work more easily than say white oak. It seems to be harder to cut crossgrain.

From contributor Mi


I have a saw on my machine, so when I have room for lead in and lead out, I use a 4 insert saw body with the net angle produced being 90-15'.
When I Don't have room to get a saw in without fouling other parts in a nest, I use a single insert router bit. I think the tool has a slight upshear. I use good packing tape to hold the parts together and act as a hinge. Depending on the thickness, I normally take 2-3 passes with the last pass only removing 0.03". Like the other posters said, mdf is the best substrate, but others can work as well. Had good luck on P.B., bamboo, solid surface, and even some good quality plywood.