We recently started using a Diehl veneer splicer and we are having varying results. Has anyone experienced a downgrade in glue quality over 24 hours time after splicing? Some pieces go together brilliantly and later on crack right on the glue line. Weíve tried several different application methods and I know that definitely plays into the joint quality. Is there a foolproof glue application method that anyone knows of? Iíve heard that some people use a finish spray system but i don't know if we do enough to warrant that. Even if we did we would need to get extraordinary clamping strength on the stack to prevent the glue from traveling to the top and bottom of the flitches. That is another problem we've been having, dried glue on the heating platens is a nightmare. Is there a solvent that I might not know of? Weíve tried everything we have in the shop and it comes down to slow scraping with a piece of wood which takes forever.
From contributor J:
What type of glue are you using? How are you applying it? We sell Acmos 1124B release agent for UF glue.
Spraying is no big deal. We buy cheap import guns or use guns from or finish department that are too worn for quality finishing. It's like spraying water. I'm surprised you use a Diehl, which is a tricky machine, yet cannot justify spraying. Be careful with release agents as they can mess up your pressing and or finishing.
With that being said lets address your other problems. Letís talk about your glue, because you didn't mention the brand you are using., I will use the brand I use for an example and to explain what I have found to be a successful veneer splicing process. I use a product that is made by Borden, yes that Borden, the folks that make ice cream, called DS-200/DS201. The 200 is white for lighter veneers and the 201 is for darker veneers. The mix is 2 parts glue to 1 part water by weight. When mixed correctly, the consistency should be about the consistency of a thinned out cake batter. Now, when you apply the glue to the edge of your veneer pack, the rule here is the thinner the better. There are several ways to apply the glue - spray, brush, and etc. Kuper even sells a machine that does this but itís pretty pricey.
I have used all of the above and have had success with all. Because you are limited to either spraying or brushing, may I suggest the brush method. The main reason being you can better control the spread. For clamping the veneer together you can either build a small clamp or what I do is make a solid wood block 4" x 4" square by 10-12" long. When the glue builds up on the block you can either sand it off or run it through the saw or do whatever you like to do to get it cleaned up. I think you get the idea here.
Now the glue spread should be as thin as possible, but not so thin to where it will fail. It's the same concept as gluing solid wood together. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces rather than a lot of glue to one surface for a much superior glue line. O.K, now that we have our veneer glued up, the next step is to fan the veneer out so the book doesn't stick together and tear your edges apart. The dry time for the glue is anywhere from 15-30 minutes based on the humidity in the area.
You will know itís ready when you can touch the edge and it's not sticky. One thing I forgot to mention is check your veneer moisture. Iíve found that 9-11% is the best range for most veneers. Working time for the glue is roughly 6-8 hours. You could probably stretch it to 10 if you have an a/c controlled environment. Anything after that, the glue is pretty much useless. Tust me I've tried to glue up books of veneer the night before and leave them in an a/c'd room and had no success.
Now letís talk about our good old friend Mr. Diehl. First letís talk about heat range. A good range I have found is between 325-340 degrees Fahrenheit. Feed speed is anywhere from 30-40 mpm, meters per minute. The glue build up on your heater bars can be eliminated by applying metal polish to the bars. Just apply it the way you normally would when polishing metal. Spread it across both bars in a thin, even, coat. Let it dry and then buff it with a clean dry cloth. Use a good quality metal polish. Veneering can be quite difficult at times but it's also not rocket science. What I have suggested here are some basic guidelines I have found throughout the years of trial and error that work for me. There are many different ways to do this. Give it a try and tweak it here and there to suit your needs.
Quality glue joints with any splicer really come down to proper operation and maintenance of the equipment and of course a good quality cut on the veneer to start with by using a veneer saw or guillotine.
On another note for anyone out there who is interested in veneer splicing, Kuper is not the only machine that can apply adhesive to veneer edges and seam them in one pass with high quality results
The Fisher+Ruckle Omnimaster Plus manufactured in Swtzerland, sold and serviced by Joos USA Inc, as well as the Furniertechnik LZM-LA manufactured in Germany, sold and serviced by Veneer Systems Inc. should also be highly considered when looking for a longitudinal veneer splicer that applies glue and seams veneer in one pass. All four brands should perform properly if you know how to use them, and know how to maintain them.
I feel I've learned a good bit but my results are not really improving. Would variation in the temperature mess us up that bad? Could it be that the machine isn't grabbing the veneer hard enough to press it together sufficiently? Is there a splicing wizard that I can invite to the shop?