I am looking for ideas or techniques on veneering 4" diameter columns with a burl veneer.
From contributor A:
With a paint roller apply yellow wood glue to both your burl and your column and let dry. Then iron the burl on. Follow with a piece of wood to smooth it out while it cools down - works great.
1. You might need to use a veneer softener such as GF-20 from Veneer Systems or a homemade glycerin-based one (search the Knowledge Base here for the formula). Instead of drying the treated veneer flat, dry it on the column or spare column stock with a piece of waxed paper protecting the substrate; you'll be pre-bending the veneer so that it will take the curve better.
2. Use a split column and veneer each half separately, then join.
3. If you think you can get away without softening the veneer, you might want to make a 2-ply with a paper such as Yorkite. Press it flat with PVA and a caul. Before the PVA is fully set (about forty-five minutes to an hour) take it out of the bag; put it over the column stock and put it back in the bag until the glue is fully set. It will be pre-formed and ready to be pressed to your column with adhesive of choice.
4. This would be good application for paper-backed veneer.
Comment from contributor T:
I have experienced this problem and worse. The cause was that the moisture content in the veneer was too high. I would suggest that you let the adhesive coated veneer and substrate dry thoroughly, several hours to a full 24 hours, before application. You must bring the MC of the veneer back down to 6%. I would recommend a slightly thinner coat of glue on the veneer and a thicker coat on the substrate. Use two coats of glue on very porous substrates.