Wipe-On Poly Over Glaze
Tips for getting good results with a wipe-on polyurethane over a glaze. March 3, 2006
Can you use a glaze with a wipe-on finish poly or antique oil by Minwax? My customer wants a table top to look like an antique. I thought I would do a little distressing, then a coat of wipe-on poly or antique oil, then glaze, then a few wipe coats on top to seal the glaze in. Will this work? The customer doesn't want a plastic look, but more like an antique.
From contributor M:
I've wiped poly over glaze. It will work, but the solvent in the wipe on poly will lift some of the glaze. Try to leave as little excess glaze as possible, and don't wipe too hard with the first topcoat. Too many coats of wipe-on will still look like plastic.
From contributor A:
It would depend on the glaze. Most glazes have a drying oil, which makes it workable, and also acts as the binder for the colorant. These oils are usually reactive once they are cured, and will not resolvate from the wiped on poly or the antique oil. But do a complete start to finish test to convince yourself.
From contributor D:
I do this type of finish using a water base glaze. Let it dry well and seal it in before you go wiping real hard on it. It won't pull off like oil based. Don't completely seal the wood before glazing, though. The more in the wood you can keep it, the better off you are.