So for situations where you need to use a custom color edgeband that you cannot get in an iron-on option, how are you all gluing on the edgeband?

In my situation it's a 90 degree pie-cut cabinet but could be anything similar.

I'm aware that you can use a high quality contact spray but I've always found those results lackluster, it's difficult to get a glue pattern that doesn't telegraph through the edgeband.

I just tried to use a PUR hotmelt glue gun on this and surprisingly the PVC doesn't stick to the PUR worth a flip, which I was really surprised at since PUR is supposed to hold better than the EVA stuff most of us use in our banders.

My last ditch effort at a top notch product is going to be using P-Lam that matches, since at least I know it will have some rigidity and won't telegraph the spray glue line.

I cut these shelves an the cnc and intentionally leave the radius in the corner. we have an old Griggio edgebander but it's of Chinese origin that applies the glue to the edging, not the board.
I double apply hot glue to the banding and apply with a heat gun and trim by hand afterwards.

We use double tape from Fast Cap. I am not exactly thrilled but it seems to work.

I tried the above methods but they didn't work for long.

For situations like yours, many woodworkers and cabinet makers recommend using a PVA or specialized edgebanding adhesive applied with a roller or brush, then clamping or using a caul to ensure even pressure while it cures. Hotmelt PUR guns are great for EVA and standard PVC, but as you noticed, some PVC or custom edgebands just won’t adhere well without the right surface prep. Another approach some people use is pre-priming the PVC with a solvent or light abrasion to improve adhesion before applying spray or contact glue. It can help reduce telegraphing of glue lines.

Matt,

For this kind of manual PVC edgeband work I would separate three issues: the primer/back side of the PVC tape, adhesive wetting before it cools or flashes, and pressure on the inside corner.

PUR is not automatically stronger if it does not wet the back of that particular PVC tape. Some PVC edgebanding is made for machine hotmelt and has a primer that works well with EVA/PUR in an edgebander, while some custom colors or small-run tapes can behave differently. A handheld PUR bead can also cool before you get full pressure, especially around a pie-cut corner.

I would make a few short test strips before doing the cabinet:

1. Lightly abrade the back of the PVC and clean it, then compare it with an unabraded sample.
2. Warm the tape slightly and use a hard roller or shaped caul so the adhesive is squeezed into a thin even film.
3. If using contact adhesive, roll or brush a thin uniform coat on both surfaces and let it flash correctly. Heavy aerosol patterns are what usually telegraph through thin PVC.
4. For the inside 90-degree area, pre-form the banding with gentle heat so the adhesive is not fighting spring-back while it cures.
5. Peel-test the samples after 24 hours, not only right after application.

If the PVC still will not bond cleanly, matching P-lam is the safer premium solution because it gives more stiffness and hides the adhesive pattern better. For future jobs, asking the edge banding supplier for tape with a hotmelt/primer backing matched to the adhesive makes a big difference.

Daniel Ni
Hangzhou Jinyou New Material Technology Co., Ltd.
PVC edge banding / EVA & PUR hot melt adhesive / PVC board materials