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Subject: Re: Stave Construction?

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Stave Construction?

11/27/25       
Tom Member

On a previous post I inquired about adhesive. The PA company I spoke with said they use pine for their staves on both interior and exterior doors.
I was wondering about blending in white oak sections so that the bottom of the staves/door has a rot resistant surface.
Thoughts?

12/3/25       #2: Stave Construction? ...
Monica Chou

Website: https://www.zonledoors.com/

Our factory has done this before. If you're using a mix of pine and white oak, make sure all the strips are fully dried before using Titebond III.

It's best to use white oak as the bottom preservative-treated section, rather than randomly interspersing it, to prevent future warping.

12/7/25       #3: Stave Construction? ...
David R Sochar

Do not use TBIII - research it and you will find failures related to heat, and related to water.
You can add end butts of White Oak if you epoxy it onto the end of your glued up stile before skinning. Telegraphing of said joint may happen depending upon factors you may or may not be able to control. End grain gluing will only work if it is epoxy.
Or, you can epoxy the ends of the stiles and the bottom edge of the bottom rail after assembly, while the door is being pre-hung. Try painting a bit of West System epoxy full strength onto some White Oak end grain. It will take a short while to wick up 3/8" into the grain. Thin it with acetone, and it will go up 3/4" in the same time.

12/8/25       #4: Stave Construction? ...
Tom Norton Member

David, thanks for your reply. I recall past threads where Titebond 3 has been discussed. Personally I have used it it non door applications on the exterior of our home for years in western exposure with no problem.
A question. What about using it for gluing up the staves then using West Systems for gluing the "veneers " to the staves?
Or what adhesive would you recommend for the stave glue up?
Thanks!

12/8/25       #5: Stave Construction? ...
Dave Sochar

The idea is that water would/should never get to the interior of a stave built stile. If that is true, I would say TB1 is adequate. But something waterproof should be used for joinery. What is waterproof, vs water resistant? Epoxy is really the only answer. We tried TB 2 and 3, and felt they fell short when compared to epoxy. Same with urethane. There were no ifs or don't knows regarding epoxy.
Prior to our insistence, it was not unusual to see a 6 month old door separating at the lower part of the rail/stile joint. This was due to moisture migration into the joint from below. These were in all cases, where doors were trimmed in the field. Pre-hanging is not only an opportunity for increasing the sale amount, but by sealing with epoxy you are also insuring the quality you built into the door is realized in the field.

12/12/25       #6: Stave Construction? ...
Adam Spees

I agree with David. We've been using epoxy(West or MAS) for 30 years of exterior door manufacturing. I've done a fair amount of wooden boatbuilding with epoxy as well.

Don't thin epoxy resin with anything. West System has tested it. Zero improvement in waterproofness. Much loss in mechanical properties. You get more waterproofness by more coats.

I coated the end grain of meranti picnic table legs with a few coats of epoxy 25 years ago. Left outside on the lawn in New England. Zero damage. All of the miter joints have stayed together as well. Its had no finish on it for the last 15 years.

 

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