Architectural Woodworking

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How to do this

8/20/20       
TimG

A contractor asked me how to do this mortice in a rafter might be made. The architect specified a 1/4'' x 2'' x 7'' deep mortice to hide a metal plate . Too deep for a router or chisel mortiser,or even by hand. I thought perhaps a chain mortiser but I have zero experience with those.

8/20/20       #2: How to do this ...
rich c.

Not too deep by hand. Extra long drill bits are easy to find, as well as extra long paring chisels. You'd spend big bucks for a chain mortiser for that job. But if there is 50 rafters, then not such a bad expense.

8/20/20       #3: How to do this ...
perley bowen

A timber framer might be able to help you.
Perley

8/20/20       #4: How to do this ...
Keith Newton

I started to suggest that maybe the material could be mortised in the shop on a chain-mortiser, but I just went out and checked my PM, and the bar isn't that long, and I'm not sure how much travel it has in the plunge depth.

I've got a carving bar for a small chainsaw around here somewhere. I would be thinking about pairing that up with some sort of slide.

8/20/20       #5: How to do this ...
TonyF

TimG:

Not sure of the size, quantity or material, but is there any chance that the mortise could be routed out as a recess on a portion of the rafter thickness, and then the rest of the rafter thickness laminated on to make it full thickness? Otherwise, what Rich said.

TonyF

8/20/20       #6: How to do this ...
PAT GILBERT

What is the purpose?

8/21/20       #7: How to do this ...
TimG

The purpose is I'm guessing structural. I have a pdf he sent but I don't know how to post just the section,and don't want to post the entire thing as the architect firm is on it.It's at the ridge miter,I assumed they didn't want the plate seen from the outside. The contractor is wanting to know what he's in for before he bids. So far I came up with a Makita chain mortiser that is good to 7 1/8'' x 1 15/16'' x 9/16'' with the narrowest chain. It would require the plate to be thicker than drawn, but the rafters are 4'' thick so I don't see why a bigger plate won't fly but who knows. I'm retired now so it won't be me doing the work, I'm just the consultant. I wish these architects would have someone on staff who could vent some of these things they come up with before they get to this point.

8/21/20       #8: How to do this ...
TimG

OK,I did a screenshot of the section.


View higher quality, full size image (1920 X 1506)

8/21/20       #9: How to do this ...
PAT GILBERT

This seems superfluous, why not just strap it across the top, if it is necessary at all?

8/21/20       #10: How to do this ...
Scott

I think like another poster mentioned, the best option would be a chain mortiser. All the timber framers use them , I would suggest something like the one made by Makita.


View higher quality, full size image (825 X 1074)

8/21/20       #11: How to do this ...
TimG

Yes Pat,I quite agree.Scott,that is the one I mentioned in my above post.

8/21/20       #12: How to do this ...
Keith Newton

Now that I can see what your needing, I’m with Pat , using a strap over the top .

Another suggestion would be to use a long drill through the ridge and out the top side of both rafters, with all-thread and nuts over large rafters, if this is in a hurricane permit zone.

What the architect may not Understand, is that Gravity keeps the rafters to ridge under compression. The bottom end detail shown in detail 10 where the rafter and chord intersect is under much more tension, and it seems to me that lag bolt isn’t sufficient since there isn’t any bird’s mouth cut or pegged M&T.

8/21/20       #13: How to do this ...
Alan F.

Are we talking about details 8, 11 and 13?
that looks like 1/4 x 2 x 5" deep to me (14" strap -4" beam /2).

Has a structural engineer seen this detail? I don't see what a single plate does structurally, there is no connection to the beam and the wood will shrink and move. Once you run fasteners through its visible.

You can blind fasten one side as well as connect through the crown of the rafter.

If its snow load that's one issue, if its uplift for wind that's another issue. I don't see this solving either issue well.
A-

8/21/20       #14: How to do this ...
Scott

I looked at the details and it looks pretty, but I would seek clarification on the purpose of those plates?

Hangers on the ridge board would be a better solution than those plates.

Gussets on the ridge board would be a better solution than the plate at the splice on the ridge board.

The only reason I can see using the plates and bolts has nothing to do with structural, it would strictly be for the aesthetics or a look.

8/22/20       #15: How to do this ...
PAT GILBERT

Show this to the architect

Show this to the architect

9/17/20       #16: How to do this ...
Bruce H

Have the architect figure out how to achieve what he/she has drawn. Just because it was drawn doesn't make it practicable.


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