Message Thread:
Powermatic shaper
3/11/20
I am trying to rebuild a Powermatic model 26 shaper that is missing the pulleys. Anyone have the original M7 stepped pulleys or know where I can find them? My local belt/bearing/pulley company has never seen anything like what Powermatic uses on these machines. I am woundering if they were proprietary to Powermatic and no longer available.
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3/11/20 #2: Powermatic shaper ...
Try these guys redmondmachinery.com. They have a lot of old PM that they rebuild and sell parts for.
3/11/20 #3: Powermatic shaper ...
KCR:
Years ago when I was first looking at machinery, I was taken by how VERY similar some of the Taiwanese manufacturers models were to the comparable models that were then made in the US, to the point where some of the parts were interchangeable, the hole patterns even lining up precisely.
Grizzly sells a model G1026 that looks to be very similar to the Powermatic 26. Say what you may about Grizzly, the two machines of theirs that I owned performed very well, and getting parts was never an issue from them.
You might talk to their parts department and see if they have one, and if the specs fit your machine.
Good luck with your rebuild.
TonyF
3/11/20 #4: Powermatic shaper ...
Both great ideas I never thought of. I will look into them.
3/11/20 #5: Powermatic shaper ...
Tony,
I looked into the Grizzly pulleys and they don't have any specs available on the parts themselves. If it's to inconvenient, would you tell me the spindle diameters both on your motor and spindle. My motors and spindles are 1.125".
3/11/20 #6: Powermatic shaper ...
I meant to ask "if it's not to inconvenient"...….
3/11/20 #7: Powermatic shaper ...
KCR:
I only owned the Grizzly 8" joiner (eerily similar to the Powermatic) and the 4 bag dust system, both excellent machines. (I still have the dust collector, 35 years later) I never owned the Grizzly G1026 shaper, but I remember it because at the time (mid 80's) I considered it and the model they had similar to the Powermatic Model 24, but bough a more heavy duty machine elsewhere.
The Powermatic Model 24 had a quirk in that the shaft assembly changed vertical alignment when you locked the shaft height, and the Grizzly version had exactly the same quirk, which made me smile.
I would guess that a call to the Grizzly parts department might confirm the pulley specs for you, as well as the price. They have been helpful to me in the past. If the hole is different, you could probably have it bored out or bushed, but probably more trouble and expense than you are looking for.
Hope this helps.
TonyF
3/12/20 #8: Powermatic shaper ...
Before asking you for specs on the machine, I did reach out to Grizzly for the specs and they had nothing to offer. Thanks for your help though thus far. If anyone else has a Grizzly shaper similar to the PM 26, motor shaft and spindle shaft diameters would be a great help. Safe woodworking!
3/12/20 #9: Powermatic shaper ...
Website: http://www.sogncabinets.com
Take the old one to a machinist, tell him you want a new one.
3/12/20 #10: Powermatic shaper ...
Karl,
Did think of that but placed it as a last resort. If the pulleys from Grizzly worked, they cost a sum total of about $30.00 plus shipping. I would expect a machinist to cost $75.00 and up each pulley. The main problem with the Grizzly is I think the bore diameters are smaller than mine. I may decide to try them and have them re-bored if needed. I just wanted all the info I could get on them to start with before buying.
3/12/20 #11: Powermatic shaper ...
Then buy the Grizzly and have the machinist change the bores if needed. Cheaper than having them make custom pulleys.
3/13/20 #12: Powermatic shaper ...
Around here a machinist would crush the 75 number. We had a small 16 spline sheave bored, bushed, rebored, and a key way cut. $440 bucks. $100 an hour and up for legit machine shops around here.
3/13/20 #13: Powermatic shaper ...
Website: http://www.sogncabinets.com
The four people you want to be in a first name basis with:
Metal fabricator
Machinist
Electrician
And not as necessary, the electrical engineer that can terrible shoot outdated electronics.
I'm betting I could've had that made in the $150 range, but I've got a couple of miracle workers for machinists in my area as well.
The time spent hunting for a replacement has value as well.
3/15/20 #14: Powermatic shaper ...
No doubt a friend/favor/buddy deal is always a good arrangement. I was speaking to walking into a pro shop (just like a customer walking into my shop) and paying for the work.
Im never a fan of buddy deals but envy those who are good with it. They never seem to work out in my world for one party or the other. One always feels shorted and I always feel like I want to over-deliver on my end of the bargain so its usually best to just pay up and be done with it. The return favors always get called in for me at inopportune times and $300 is easier to write a check than to roast a Sunday doing $1K worth of side work to pay back a $300 favor.
3/16/20 #15: Powermatic shaper ...
MarkB,
I know what you are saying about the favor thing. The difference is that we all know how long something takes to build. Often the friend asking for a return favor has no clue.
That sheave is going to cost you a bit of cash to have a shop make it.
Your example of $440 sounds crazy. Bore/Bush/Bore/key shouldn’t take 4 hrs. Unless it’s some bizarre pulley. My local legit small machine shop would charge one hour labor $100. I’ve had many of them done over the years. That’s not a favor.
3/17/20 #16: Powermatic shaper ...
Agree'd Adam,
I was a bit staggered at the price when we had it done myself but I was in a bind and time was not an option. I didnt have them quote it ahead, my mistake. It seemed like a couple hours of work to me at best and that seemed fat but Ive also been on the other end of that one where some know it all walks into the shop telling me they need something done and starts quoting my time and that it should only take XX minutes, which is immediately followed by a dont let the door hit ya where the good lord split ya.
Only defense on their part, and no different than in my shop, it likely roached a morning of man time for a decent size shop that wouldve been on profitable production work. The sheave was bored, machine a plug, pressed in, weld, face/re-bore, chamfer, and broach a keyway.
There is an industrial metal lathe in the shop now so it would likely cost me $400 bucks to do it myself now but at least I can whip it out and keep the $400.
3/17/20 #17: Powermatic shaper ...
KCR:
I just compared a PM 26 quill assembly to one in a Grizzly copy. The pulley matched, but the bore on the PM is larger, didn't take them apart to check both bores though. Also the spindles are able to be changed on the Grizzly from the quill, the PM i have the spindle and quill seem to be one unit. I have ran the PM quill/spindle in the Grizzly before. The quill i checked on the PM was a 1" spindle unit. Hope this helps.
Sean
3/17/20 #18: Powermatic shaper ...
Thank you Sean! On your PM do you mean the spindle where you place the cutters is 1" or the shaft where the pully mounts is 1"? It would seem odd to me that PM would make the same machine with different drive end shaft diameters. I know my 1" spindle which is also a fixed spindle has a drive end of 1.125". On your Grizzly pulley, do you think there is enough hub diameter to re-bore it and still have enough hub to receive the set screws in it?
3/17/20 #19: Powermatic shaper ...
KCR,
The pulleys seem to be the same diameter, and belt groove width, so yes the pulley seems to have enough material to be bored out. I'm having difficulties sending pics on this forum. If you send me your email, ill send you pics of the two for comparison.
Sean
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