I have a 28"W x 40"L x 4" deep cabinet. It is made of 1" pine common board from home depot. I am trying to have it hinged on the top with concealed Euro hinges and a gas strut system to keep the overhead cabinet style door open mounted on the wall. What full overlay concealed hinges can handle that weight and how many should I use? Also, how strong of struts should I use. I tried just 2 euro hinges from amazon and two 100N struts, but that doesn't seem to do the trick. The hinges started to bend from the stress and the struts can't seem to keep the door open. It will be mounted on the wall and the door will need to open to be parallel to the ground.

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I built a similar cabinet to display a clients collection of antique bamboo fly rods. It took some trial and error to get it work the way I wanted. I used some no mortise butt hinges and gas struts to support the door when open. It took 3 trys to get the correct strut and mounting points.

From what I see in your photos, your struts are under sized. The struts will also generate considerable torque, which is why I went with the butt hinges. With only one pivot point on the edge of the door and frame, they're much more resistant to the leverage being applied by the struts.

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Maybe you can have a hinged shelf support that swings out from its nested position (parallel with the wall) to its functional position (perpendicular to the wall. Then you could use some type of mechanical device to "lock" the support in position. A piano hinge along the length of the top should easily bear the weight.

Won't a piano hinge show from the outside of the cabinet? The reason I was using the euro hinges was to hide the hinge so it doesn't appear to be a cabinet.

I also tried 200N struts and that is when the stress on the hinges caused them to bend. The 200N still didn't seem to be enough to keep the door open. That rod cabinet looks nice. What struts did you use? 3 years is really not making me feel confident in solving this problem as an amateur.

The door is 18.6 lbs. Just put it on a scale

Mike - I first tried some struts I had left over from another project. According to the instructions they came with, they should have worked but were instead woefully inadequate. Next try I went with some rated substantially higher, but they still weren't strong enough. Third try I went with some SUV tailgate struts I found on Amazon for about $15. Those finally worked, but I did have to fabricate a mounting bracket for one end of each strut because it was made for a car, not a cabinet. It did take a few extra hours of fussing with it, but in the end it worked perfectly.

Struts are interesting! Napa and other auto parts stores have a catalog with all the struts in it, different lengths and weights as well as different brackets that will work with them

I bought some longer struts as the ones I was using were only 10.5". I have some 15" struts coming today in the mail. Hopefully this will solve the issue. I also added a few more hinges for support.

FYI, 15" struts did the trick as well as adding some better hinges closer to the edges of the door. The shorter more compact hinges couldn't deal with the stress of the door weight. Thanks for all your input!