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Manually applying PVC edge banding9/21
We have an odd situation where we need to apply some 1 3/4" .018" PVC banding to some parts we cant run through the bander. Running a few test with contact the adhesion is not great at all. You can peel the banding off with moderate force and while the contact stays on the banding a bit it peels off consistently to where the back of the banding is just as clean as it was off the roll. Banding supplier doesnt have much to add stating that contact should be fine. Wondering if anyone has any input. All the standards, even application both surfaces, plenty of dry time (to the touch), warm, new material.
I'm guessing that you can't use the bander either because the piece is too big or the edges are not straight, or have some kind of angle.
You don't say how much of this you have to do, but what you might try is to have one person put down a bead of hot melt glue (craft store type) ahead of another person who follows with the edgebanding and a roller. It would be tedious (and messy), and might take some trial and error to get the right pace, but it might work.
They used to sell a pvc banding that had double-sided tape applied to it, and you peeled off the barrier paper as you rolled the edging onto your piece. I wonder if a strong double-sided tape like was on that banding might not work in your situation.
Hope this helps.
Hadnt considered a hot glue option but without trying it it sounds like something that would be pretty iffy and most definitely messy as you say.
Doing a bit of head scratching as we've rarely had to contact PVC before and never an issue. Never thought it would be a problem and even calling banding supplier they say "its done every day" and dont know what the issue would be.
We could have brought this banding in peel and stick, which in hindsight may have been a better option, but Ive used peel and stick many times as well as Fastcap's fastedge tape or whatever its called and Ive never been impressed which was why opted to just lock it down with contact.
Don't know if you are using water-based contact cement; if so, you might try the solvent based instead. If the glue pulls off of the substrate, you might try double-coating that. Perhaps aggressively sanding the back of the pvc edging before gluing might help as well.
Sorry if I have stated the obvious, but I know I have been in situations where the obvious sometimes gets overlooked.
Tony, stating the obvious to me is perfectly fine. Im thankful for your input.
No water-based. All solvent.
Substrate seems to be fine. Banding so so. Supplier stated to not in any way sand or abrade the banding that its primed. In tests we cut one back hard and cpntact anyway, not much better. We wouldn't deviate from manufacturer spec regardless.
use a laminate or phenolic paper first then apply the PVC with contact
Two thoughts , try a very light first coat on the banding with a very long dry time before a not too heavy second coat to re activate it and or maybe try some other brands of glue .
https://edgecoinc.com/peel-stick-edge-banding-pvc-wood-veneer/. They have this in all brands,matching mica, wood u stain etc
Years ago I did laminate doors that had a cove finger pull. I would put masking tape on the edge of particle board then run it through edgebander. The glue did not stick very well to the masking tape but adhered to the pvc banding. I would just peel the banding from the board and then heat gun it to the cove on the door. Some masking tapes work better for this than others. Maybe this would work for you.