Ive always shipped fillers mounted to a flange we cut on the CNC. The filler, and toe kick filler are pocket screwed to that flange that gets screwed to the exterior of the cab.

The bulk of the commercial contractors I feed say fillers from others just land as the filler alone (2" x XX" filler strip) like you get with residential solid wood cabs and they drill and screw from the inside of the cabinet. I have no idea what they do in that situation to fill the gap in the kick for vinyl cove but ive seen these after install and while I know no one in the commercial world cares but the butchered holes inside the cabs always look less than optimal.

New contractor picked up a batch of cabs this morning and said they just always buy metal angle brackets and attach the fillers from the back!!!! When I handed them the fillers we normally supply with the flange, filler, and kick filler, they were over the moon. That said, the last couple jobs for our normal contractors I quit supplying the flanged option and just shipped whatever fillers were needed.

Typical situation that I dont want to cut/ship something I dont need to and most commercial installs I see even from massive shops that do their own install are far from anything I would walk away from (no offense but Ive seen pretty high dollar jobs where a screwdriver was not even contemplated to adjust door gaps and reveals).

I try to ship a package that makes things easier for our contractors but know full well we are over-delivering without any reward as its all open bid work. Just wondering what others standard is.

I build as if I might be installing. If it makes it easier for the contractor I would hope that the see the added value.

Thanks Kevin,
Unfortunately thats only true if your shipping product better than your competitors that leans work/awards in your favor. There is a slight advantage in that regard in our work because we do not do install so our contractors technically should see that when a job comes from us its eaiser/plug and play, for their crews to install and may either favor us even if we are a bit higher because they know their install will be seamless/quicker. That however is often not the case in competitive commercial bidding. Lowest qualified bidder gets the award so shipping a Mercedes when others will ship a Cadillac (and its accepted) is just not good business.

My mindset is the same as yours but when it comes down to brass tax every bit counts.

Company policy to attach all fillers during mock up of each room

Amazing how the lost fillers isssue has gone away.

Finished ends. Big yellow paper stating finished end over the. Door and part of the end.

Cabinetmaker,
Your saying you install all your fillers in the shop before you deliver to customer/jobsite? I could only imagine doing this if I were handling the cabs myself or doing our own installs or boxing/packaging, none of which we do. Around here, everyone Ive ever know ships their fillers to the job loose.

We're in the middle of an experiment at our shop. We've done some runs with smaller projects successfully, but we're running a commercial project right now with about 200 boxes. We are attaching all the fillers in the shop. We are also putting all the shelving in the cabinet. This way, everything makes it into the right room the first time. We are taking extra time to protect each filler. Even wall cabinets that the filler wraps back to the wall are ready to go. I'm trying to save time on the install process. We'll see if this experiment pays off on this large of a scale. We have an advantage in that we are building, loading, moving, and installing this. I'm sure this wouldn't work for plenty of companies. But, for some, maybe it would pay off.

If for some reason we decide this wasn't the approach we want to take in the future, I would try a "flange" like you're doing now to screw onto the cabinet onsite for the uppers with a return, and still simply screw the base fillers to the base cabinet from the inside.

We also use leg levelers, so the loose toe kicks simply run to the wall.

Mark B

We are attaching to all jobs, putting shelves in and now adding a yellow sheet to all finished ends to keep a drill through from happening

I originally thought we would break the fillers off in transit, but it's been going well with no problems

I use any 2-3" scrap plywood rips to make an "L" return that butts to the carcass side. That gets screwed to the carcass behind the hinge arm (clip-top), and/or through an un-used 5mm shelf pin hole. I've been considering pre-boring everything for lamello p-system biscuits, but not sure I'm ready to put any more capital into a new joinery system with expensive consumables.

As an installer, I was pretty accustomed to getting 8' strips of 3" edgebanded stock and a roll of peel and stick edgebanding and fastcaps in a touch-up kit.