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I have a customer who wants to make a small quantity of doors like this using his CNC. The doors will be Ash with a light stain.
Any tips on how to go about this? Or is this something that's best to outsource?
The cutting is relatively easy on a CNC router. Just back and forth with a point cutting round over bit (https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1572-Diameter/dp/B000ALY4EC) .
The real catch is what to use for the material.
Solid ash is going to have way too much wood movement over the overall width of the doors.
Ash veneer panel stock isn't going to end up with any ash left at all on the surface as it is going to be machined away by the bit.
The next logical thought is a thick shop made ash veneer over a panel substrate. This sounds good but the panel will not be stable as the ash "veneer" would act as solid wood instead of a true veneer layer.
I don't see a solution offhand but perhaps someone else will chime in with a good idea.
Thanks for the response.
Yes wood movement was really my primary concern. That and tearing the grain.
Shop made plywood to the rescue. Same thickness of solid on the back as on the front. 5 ply, at 3/4" total thickness. Two .20" faces, and three plies of .117" with the grain alternating. The cock bead will cover the plywood edges. If you are worried about warpage, make it 7 ply at an inch thick.
I will bet lunch that it will not move a hair if it is 3/4" shop ply. There is far too much fear of warp passed around on the Forum (like a bunch of old women - is that sexist?). The real warp that is posted/seen is easy to diagnose and avoid. If I lived in fear of warpage like some, I would not be able to cut a board. My opinion.
I have made 'reeded' parts for years in 3/8" thick material on the shaper with a 4 bead cutter at 1". So I run 2" wide stock twice and then cut to length, butting or shiplapping the joints. Running it cross grain, unbalanced on friezes, etc, it never opens up and looks fine. Use quartered stock to help you sleep.
I'll be thinking where I'd like to have lunch.
You're talking solid ash all the way through.....correct?
I did that years ago on a walnut project where fine rings ~24" diameter were cut out of the shop made ply. Slightly thinner layer thicknessing to your suggestion but only 3/8" thick so 3 or 4 layers total.........don't remember which.
As heavy as the glaze is on the panel, I'd glue shop made veneer on mdf. Let the glaze disguise the seam and soak into the mdf. It would take some experimenting to see if a balance sheet is needed. If you cut all the way through the shop made veneer, I don't think the backer would be needed since the beads on the face has now become a row of pieces and expansion and contraction would not be an issue. If you use rift sawn ash, tear out would not be as much as an issue.
Bernie - Yes, solid Ash, 5 ply, alternating grain direction. They are building multi story buildings with 5 ply panels 8' x 20' in Europe - floors, ceiling, walls, the whole deal.
I actually think the panels in question can be made out of anything and be just fine. After a lifetime of handwringing and calculating, I'm going devil-may-care and breaking those heavily etched rules. Very liberating!
Or just run some bead strips, cut to length and glue them all onto an MDF backer. Apply true ash veneer to the back and band the edges with solid ash.
Voila............exactly what he's looking for with, as you said, no expansion/contraction issues.
we cut bead board every few days with this bit,,,on an older scm,,,,,on poplar,,,,poplar is very soft,,i havent machined ash on our router here,,,
Thanks for all the feedback.
Chevy,. Are you machining 3/4" bead board for doors or is it for reeded posts? This would be a different situation as they would be applied to the post which would prevent them from warping.
I am pretty comfortable with the actual process & tools to machine this. The concern is more with materials
Still concerned about warp if this is solid stock but don't really have the resources or skills to make shop ply.
90% of the bead board i run is 3/8 moisture resistant mdf,,panels for cope and stick or even mitre cabinet doors,,,,,,on a job like this solid wood panels would be warping like crazy overtime(space balls would explode) ,,if i were to run this job,,i would make my 4 piece doors of ash and run veneered panels on the cnc,,,id grab mohawk penetrating (burnt umbar and thin with mixing laquor thinner ,and it should match the ML campbell light ,,
How can you guys run the beads on a router with that pointed bit and not get burning?