Thanks for the response. I have seen conflicting statements about when to fill from several websites and from the directions on the crystalac itself. I have a customer that wants a dark walnut stain on the oak. My thoughts were to stain and let cure, then apply the dewaxed shellac to give me something under the grain filler so when I sand down the filler I don't hit the stain. Then, finish with the poly.
If I could apply the filler first then the stain then poly I wouldn't be confused. i just don't see how you could apply the stain and then the filler directly over the stain and not expect to sand through and mess up the stain. I appreciate any and all suggestions. This is my first time working to get a glass smooth surface on oak. Thanks everyone
I'm just wanting a clear pore fill. That's why I'm looking at the crystalac. My thoughts are stain will stick to wood. The dewaxed shellac will be good over the stain and will also be compatible with the water based filler. The poly will be good for the finish.
Her personal pockets may not be that deep so I hope yours are. To achieve a Piano type finish on Oak it will be a lot easier for you if you investigate alternative coatings.
2part Urethane's may cost more for the coatings but save you quite a bit in labor costs.
Check out some of the reviews on Amazon under Crystalac Water Based Grain Filler.
The product does get some good reviews but its time consuming to get that smooth glass smooth look. I think you can get that same finish using different products.
If you do professional work, why buy a big box store stain? LOTS better options out there than Minwax. Minwax takes way too long to dry, especially if it soaks way into the pores of red oak. Of your 4 steps, you are using the products of 4 different companies. Go with one professional supplier for compatibility. Sherwin-Williams or ML Campbells for me.
I would agree with Rich in using one manufacturers product but even with that some of the best finishers/refinishers out there use dewaxed shellac (sealcoat) extensively early in the process which would void any manufacturer warranty.
If it were me I would use the tried and true process of stain, then tint a paste filler to the color your after, brush it on, let it dry a bit, and burlap it off, packing the pores as you go. Then proceed with your finish schedule. Behlen, or ML Campbell are common fillers.
Moving away from Minwax a good thing and fairly easy especially if you get setup with an MLC distributor.
regardless if you stain first or not, first seal the surface with dewaxed shellac washcoat. This prevents the filler from staining the wood. After the filler is dry 24 hours, then seal again. Watch f=or compatibility between oil and water layers. Also, if you are going to stain first, and if you are going to use a pigmented oil stain, give this plenty of time to dry since the open oak pores take a bit longer.
Stain, let dry, hose on a high build lacquer sealer(two coats) back sand without sanding through. Repeat until pores are filled. Topcoat with a compatible top coat. Dont over complicate things. Especially if the client is budget minded. As long as you stay away from water based stuff the pores should fill relatively quickly
and id also like to add that Rich is correct as well.. stick with the same manufacturer. in this case, sayerlack is compatible with and provided by Sherwin Williams which would give you a far superior stain and complete system.
Again. if it were me i would stain with sherwin, seal with sherwin provided sayerlack, and topcoat with sherwin conversion varnish. (all 100% compatible and backed by a very well trusted brand)
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