Hello

To give you a max of infos here are the fact:

-Wood is solid ash (finished for the first time)
-Grain filled with timbermate
-Dyed then stained
-Finish is CV (retarded 5%) (Max retarder reducer allowed is 10%)
-Sprayed via turbine HVLP (as of now no other options
-First coat goes fine (selfseal)
-Second coat is applied after an hour--> pinholes
-Recoat window is 4 hours

My first coat Always goes great. I sand it then it is Always on the second coats that pinholes appear. The result is like one THICK wet coat was applied.

I have tried spraying and old test pieces that had cured for weeks and did not had any pinholes appear. Did not seem to affect resistance at all (but no extensive testing was done)

I am tempted to Apply the first sealsealing coat, let dry for 48h (manufacturer recommend at least 24h if we are past the recoat window). Then begin the topcoats in order to not remelt the seal coat.

Anyone tried that method in order to reduce pinholes?

Thanks

we answered you before recently.... Your turbine is the problem.... it's heating up your coating causing issues as well as the application speed for a turbine hlvp is garbage.... the only way your going to get something worked out is if you reduce the topcoat more and shoot thinner coats.... I suggest you change equipment or like I suggested before double the size of your hvlp hose to help get some of that heat away!

i know the grestest culprit iw my turbine but since I live about 2000km from the nearest finisher store all mist stuf come from delivery so getting a new system will take while because of that covid19 thing.

My temporary solution would be as said ealier but was wondering if it could hurt resistance of cv. wich is lettingthe first coat cure for 48h before spraying the rest of the coats.

As shawn said; "thinner coats" you may not be able to change equipment but you can do that. Try reducing 15% and if that doesn't work go to 20%. You may (will) have to apply a additional coat to achieve the same build as your less thinned material.

your not hurting anything by recoating 48 hours later...… just scuff sand before next coat... I really think you should reduce at least 20% or more so it flows better for you considering your equipment and issues. I would reduce with butyl acetate personally.... you don't need mohawks specific reducer for that..

Viscosity with reducer is going to be your friend

The recoating window is not a definitive rule. It’s based on perfect circumstances which you don’t have.