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Dyeing wood all the way through (Ebonizing)1/20
The uesed to be a product based on Maple which was dyed all the way through, then there was one based on Radiata Pine, but both are no longer on the market.
We have experimented with multiday soaking of 1/4" soft maple strips in various dyes but the penetration is no more than .06".
Pressure dyeing? Is there any experience out there with accomplishing this?
The longest pieces must be 48".
I'd say you need a hard vacuum to replace the air in the cells with dye. Probably boiling hot dye at that. I've only seen this done in veneer. Are you carving it since you want full color throughout the piece?
No carving, it gets sanded flush to the table top.
You will have to consult with people that make UHV Chambers(ultra high vacuum)
Can you just use African blackwood or wenge?
My local hardwood dealer used to carry roasted Maple, which changed the color of maple by cooking it. It wasnít jet black, but blackish grey. My supplier said It also came in pine. Iím guessing this was the same product your looking for.
Your description does not indicate the finished dimensions of the ebonized pieces that you need. If you can not use dyed veneer or inlay to give the effect that you need, I might suggest gluing veneer together until you reach the required thickness.
I have sourced 1.2MM nominal thickness vacuum-dyed black veneer sheets in the past; six layers of this would give you a quarter inch, if that is what you need, and the 1.2MM plies should be sufficient thickness to flush sand, such as you would not sand through and reveal a glue line.
Without knowing the specific application, it is hard to be helpful.
1.2 mm dyed veneer would be great! The strips we lay in are .375" wide x .1875" tall (deep). In use the .375 dim is across the face of the table, .1875 is the depth into the slot, allowing .0625 to sand off.
We went through a phase of using roasted Maple and R. Birch a few years ago when one of our chair customers was making their tables with it. The roasting process affects the wood such that it splits and cracks randomly. The inlay on the table tops does get a small bend into the slot and the Roasted woods tend to pop apart with even a slight stress. Nice look though.
RE Blackwood or Wenge: Twould look great but doesn't that bring me back to the adhesion issues as with Ipe? What is needed is a temperate hardwood with its softer and more porous structure and a Dark color (Walnut isn't dark enough).
There are no adhesion problems with Wenge. Titebond II does a great job gluing wenge to itself or other species. Have lots of experience with this. The very porous appearance may be a problem however.