|Home » Forums » Professional Finishing » Message||Login|
You are not logged in. Consider these WOODWEB Member advantages:
How to make stains with 824 utc2/17/18
So often my purchased stain matches are not right and was really waste much time.
Help me with the mixing ratios and perfered/best solvents to achieve the best results!
Jim, many guys will use and I have also just Min Spirits or VM&P if I want it fast. I have since moved on to a clear stain base that will work with the 824's. This will give you a solvent blend for a nice drying system, some resins to lock down the color and stop sweat back out of open pore woods. Will also help with color float when sealing and adhesion on dark highly pigmented colors. Find the correct base and it may let you mix dyes into it also.
There a many variables to consider.
First realize that most tints we use as professionals it made up of particulates.
These are pigments not dyes. That means they stay toward the top of the substrate and will darken more in the soft grains where it is more absorbent.
Dyes are pure liquid colorant. They will not come out of anything unless you use bleach, and then it might discolor your substrate permanently.
Type of wood or substrate, environmental conditions, the desired finish coat.
I do not recommend UTS for staining underneath a acrylic finish unless you wipe off all excess while staining, and allow to dry for a solid two days.
You can not shorten the dry time, do not try with anything like Japanese dryer or lacquer thinner.
I would thin with mineral spirits to eliminate streaking and give you more valuable working time.
Make sure you water pop the wood first, allow to dry, and give it a thorough 220 sand with the grain. I could go on for days about this subject.
What do you mean "stain matches"? It sounds to me that you're trying to achieve a look from a stain & topcoat, but it doesn't look like your finish sample. That might be because your samples have a more complex color building scheme than your stain & topcoat scheme.
Matching a look is the holy grail. Your stain only has to match that one part of the finish schedule. There is no all-in-one stain. Start with a dye stain. Washcoat with a wetvoat of finish or sealer mixed to 3% solids. Apply your wiping stain. Highlight (or not) by striking out in the grain direction, especially doing the cathedrals of the grain if they're there. Tone with a dye based toner or even a pigmented based toner, and/or glaze. Then, topcoat.
My assumption is that your stains do match but it's your final result which doesn't. To tweak existing stains, use earthtone UTC's. Use the primary and secondary colors as "kickers".
There's a book among the many, "Blue and Yellow Don't Make Green". It's a unique and concise work about how to color.