We are looking for solutions to speed/lean up the way we package cabinets, large panels, and trim. It is a good problem to have, because we are at a point in our business where the old "just go wrap it all by hand" is no longer sufficient.
Neither are we at a point to dump $10K on a machine that just wraps 2X8 sized fridge end panels.
I'm curious about what solutions you guys use for wrapping and protecting large finished panels and assembled cabinets.
We have our own install crew, so we only ship in our own trailers.
Our preferred method for wrapping something like a 2X8 finished fridge panel is to cover both sides with cardboard or 1/8" foam sheets, and then use enough plastic wrap to hold everything together. This just takes a long time to do well.
Matt I apprenticed in a furniture factory years ago. We used 1" strips cut from a large inner tube. Wrapped cabinets, tables, wall units in furniture pads. Stretched the big rubber band around and away we went.
I think it requires that you take care of the blankets between uses so they stay clean.
There is a lot of protection in $500 worth of pads and rubber
All the best
Our cabinet faces get covered in cardboard, then stretch film to hold that in place.
Small panels get bundled together and stretch filmed together. Nothing between, just stretched tight.
Tall/large panels get nothing. We hang blankets from the side of the trailer wall, place panels in, then fold blankets to cover the other side, then ratchet strap tight to the wall. Years of doing this with zero damage. Just use caution and common sense.
We use furniture pads. Some of the companies that make or sell them sell the big rubber bands also. If we are forced to use corrugated for padding we use micro foam between it and the finished parts. Long trips will cause the corrugated to burnish the finish. (We ship nation wide.)
The fastest, cheapest, safest, way to protect your millwork, wood or plam, is a labor intensive task. I chose a pallet wrap machine four by four feet, eighty four high, with foot control, and manual hight placing.
It's best cut into floor so it is level with production, and a two wheel hand dolly to move millwork. I used 20" 90gage film, and stapled scrap 3x3" 3/4 mel shoes on cabs in case clamp while they set upside down to dry. This allowed the dolly to slip between them without having to lift the box first. We wrapped full cover all the way to the top with about a quarter overlap on each row going up. Plastic wrap stops load shifting as long as you keep it clean before loading on transport. On tallest cabs, we wrapped first and attached scrap strips to the back, allowing us to roll a tall onto our flatbed trailer without lifting or damaging the millwork.
As a testament to how good it is , I had the unfortunate experience of a truck fire on the side of a mountain in Phoenix. Trailer full of wrapped very custom transparent stain on maple slab cabinets, and when the lousy breaks on a Dodge failed to hold when we put the fire out with water, the whole rig slid down the driveway! Luckily the rear axle of the trailer caught the base of a small tree and crashed half way down. We unloaded the trailer and dragged them all back up to the house (110deg day) and began our install while two tow trucks tried to remove the rig.
Not even one scratch, ding, or issue on any of the cabinets.!! I was shocked to say the least. Since 1993 I've used no other material but plastic wrap and sometimes sheetfoam.
The machine can be purchased for around 3000-4000$ and will last for thirty or more years with little or no maintenance, with regular cleaning. It's very fast when set at the end of final assembly. We loved ours.
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